It’s almost a cliché that pressures of life cut into our
hobby time, and my 2017 experience has been probably the most extreme example
of this to date. I finished one small kit early in the year, then, despite
having a great many underway, found my energy, attention and time drained away
to other things. Losing a parent at mid-year was one of life’s milestones and
put a great dampener on things as trivial as creative entertainment… Then there
was work – teaching the second semester anthropology course for First Years was
quite a commitment, and my writing endeavours have certainly taken up time and
application – I should finish the year with better than sixty new short
stories, in quest of that fabled occupation, professional science fiction
writer.
So it’s hardly a surprise that the hobby bench took a back
seat this year, and only now, at the end of the year, have I been able to set
things aside and make an attempt to finish up a few projects before the
fireworks at New Year.
The one that wanted to be finished first was Tamiya’s
vintage Brummbar, 35077, from 1976. This kit has long been eclipsed by the
Dragon offerings, but, having built one of those a couple of years ago, I can
safely say this one is a much easier build, for all its proportional problems.
It depicts a first- to early-second series vehicle, and in reality these were
delivered with zimmerit, without exception. However, I did not fancy a zimmerit
job on this model, I wanted to explore painting techniques on an un-rippled
hull, try to push my chipping approach in oils (inspired by some build photos I
found on the web of an amazing chipping job performed on this very same kit.)
So, historical inaccuracy aside, I built the model straight
from the box (the easy part), and decided on detailing. I grafted in some
Dragon bits – the schkurtzen hangers,
for instance, finer and more exact than the Tamiya parts, but they simply would
not line up anything like accurately, therefore plans to add the Dragon etched
skirt plates were also shelved.
As usual with old Tamiya Pz. IV kits, I added some detail
inside the fenders in strip and rod styrene. These details were omitted from
the kit for reasons of tooling limitations, but are easy enough to add.
By the time the model was “finished” and photographed, I
realised I had also forgotten to paint the jack block and prep a Dragon
braided-wire tow cable – these details are to follow whenever I get around to
them!
The soul of this job was always going to be the painting. I
got the project as far as the base colour overall (Tamiya Acrylics XF-60,
lightened for scale effect with 25% XF-2, then given a slight lustre with 20%
X-22). And there she sat for many months as I struggled with the other things
life set before me, never quite feeling up to doing the rotbraun camo overspray, until recently.
I had been away from the hobby so long I made a number of
mistakes – the first camo overspray was okay, but the mist coat to pull the
finish together was the wrong shade, resulting in too light an effect and the rotbraun developing a pinkish tinge. I
then realised I had used NATO brown instead of the WWII shade anyway! Talk
about disconnected from the job… So, back up, mix a fresh round of base colour
by the numbers, respray and start again, correct camo (XF-64), followed by
XF-60 mist to tie it together.
Finally I got to grips with the oils, gave the whole beast a
very thin wash of dark brown in enamel thinner (stinks to high heaven, gives me
blazing headaches unless I have a wind blowing through the place and use a respirator mask), then
switched to unthinned oils to profile all edges in a pale ochre, followed by
the rust work – dark brown, red-brown, and the slightest touch of orange. This
took about three sessions over some days, and the sheer extent of the work
always left some bit needing more. I need to try the old scotchbrite-pad method
for extensive areas of random chipping, it would really improve the result and
speed things up.
More oils, pin washes around details, then dry pigment work
on the muffler, and back to the air brush to spray the road grime coat on the
underside and running gear. Here I made a mistake again, taking it too
dark/heavy on the roadwheels so there was too much contrast against the drives
and idlers. I didn’t spot this mismatch until the running gear was mounted, and
with the Tamiya polycap attachment method they absolutely did not intend to
come off again, so respraying was out. Instead I darkened the drives and idlers
with a black oil wash to create a more even gradient between upper and lower
areas and this seemed to suffice as an eleventh-hour save.
Decals are Archer crosses and Dragon numbers. I added a
little pigment over them to tone down the brightness of the white, which always
seems to work visually. The pioneer tools were sprayed on the sprue, given a
dark brown wash to tone back the metallic, then fitted and treated with
pigments for rust effects. The jack was sprayed hull colour and weathered
appropriately.
The Brummbar had a plate over the muffler, possibly to
protect the spare wheels from the heat and soot of the exhaust, but this plate
is omitted here – there is no way to fit
the muffler with the plate installed, and the plate will not fit if the muffler
goes on first, apparently. It strikes me as an unhappy consequence of driving
the original Panzer IV kit’s lower hull engineering beyond its original design
intent (either that or this bit was too fiddly for me, a very rare event in an
early Tamiya kit!)
Last washes and pigments completed the dirt and rust effect
all round, I added a radio antenna from wire, and she was essentially done. A
great many unused parts went into storage, on which I will draw for future
projects – the ample supply of individual track links will serve on a StuG IV
at some point, the crew helmets will find service, the skirt plates also
perhaps.
Okay, it’s not super-accurate, but it’s also neither
super-difficult nor super-expensive, and it’s a fun model to build. The
painting aspect is king here – as an example check out the last photo – the
finished Brummbar against a Pz. IV J as far along as the scale-adjusted base
colour. This really brings home to what degree the finishing techniques bring a
model alive.
There’s a fortnight left in the year and I’m going to try to
finish another couple of projects before the calendar turns.
Cheers, Mike Adamson
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