tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43775514403017018702024-03-11T13:54:00.172+10:30World In MiniatureWorld In Miniature is devoted to the art and science of plastic modeling, by, for and about modellers who strive for realism and fun in the hobby!Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.comBlogger136125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-85366348308699036682022-12-15T15:45:00.000+10:302022-12-15T15:45:08.572+10:30Tamegawa and the Case for Retooling <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHhoyDV531C24Sv-kPtEGH671k0HenhGyaJATeqj8QKLXwt3VfpT4rwd-8rx_6-0hoQTN13xd5ahRHfUYGxORFB46UKBf3uBzcJ2GT6L2M0dAaygvsoHqbzTPOHpt5d6EhY_aFPNSKxF5wnrGK55HSMFR4rFGOJwje81BbCzrVbXE0JF8MY0LK0Io-AA/s400/DSCF3163a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="221" data-original-width="400" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHhoyDV531C24Sv-kPtEGH671k0HenhGyaJATeqj8QKLXwt3VfpT4rwd-8rx_6-0hoQTN13xd5ahRHfUYGxORFB46UKBf3uBzcJ2GT6L2M0dAaygvsoHqbzTPOHpt5d6EhY_aFPNSKxF5wnrGK55HSMFR4rFGOJwje81BbCzrVbXE0JF8MY0LK0Io-AA/w400-h221/DSCF3163a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>(This post was first published on June 1st, 2009. In the course of updating the image files for better quality and to retire Photobucket as the image vendor, the original post seems to have been lost, which is very annoying as this new version now appears thirteen years out of synch with its neighbours! Appologies...)</div><div><br /></div><div>The giants from Shizuoka City need no introduction, there must be very few modellers in the world who don’t have Hasegawa and Tamiya kits in their stash. I find myself trying consciously not to talk too much about Tamiya, I don’t want to bias the content of this blog or have it become a Tamiya fan club, but quality does deserve to be discussed as and where it is encountered.</div><div><br /></div><div>Hasegawa is a company for which I have had the greatest respect for the last 25 years, and I have a great many of their aircraft in my stash. I recently had reason to pull out their Bf 109 K-4 and was very pleased with the engineering, the look of the parts and the overall general accuracy. Detail by detail, she matches up with research for a very fair K-4. A few details can be added from styrene, you need to cut away the battery box of the G-10 behind the headrest and make the access hatch and canopy locking bars from scratch, but that’s easy enough. Same with adding the radiator actuator struts and some stiffeners inside the split flaps. The fuselage detailing right and left of the centreline doesn’t quite match up, but given that this kit was probably engineered in the earlier days of CAD-CAM, that’s fair enough.</div><div><br /></div><div>One might expect the fact that the kit shares multiple parts for the G-6 and G-10 versions to cause problems with fit and engineering, this is fairly common. Indeed there are three instrument panels, redundant drop tanks and cannon gondolas, all sorts of bits not needed for the subject in hand, but they don’t seem to be a problem. In the old days Airfix would have sold this kit as the Bf 109 G/K, with instructions for using all the parts, and marking options for each type included on the sheet. (Remember their F-4 Phantom, with options to build the B, C, D, E and J all in the one box? Not a great kit but a versatile one with heaps of options.) Then companies discovered their range looked a lot bigger if they packaged the kit for each option separately, and each issue simply contained redundant parts.</div><div><br /></div><div>But that’s by the by, the point of this post is that there is always room for improvement, and sometimes in ways you’d not expect.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have completed two Tamiya 1:48th scale WWII fighters in the recent past, a Bf 109 E-3 and a P-51D. I was very impressed with their accuracy and ease of construction, and the quality of engineering throughout, and I was essentially expecting the Hasegawa engineering to be on a par. Overall it is, parts-fit is superb, dimensional accuracy looks spot-on, but I was frustrated to find an unexpected hitch.
The cockpit. I thought initially that Hasegawa’s design solution of building up the cockpit from several parts as a subassembly to be mounted through the wing gap was a rather good idea, and it should have worked well, but…
</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiIx6EnpBwpD2lwAHOpwxB-tH3huOyH3YHMUtOgKzjiR6Gy4rFZjeOetdM7UaEZ72BlRmFI9MzcK_GYXIkdaIJwl03BFdfrSVsrg5DmCNRnlL_f0i_XNJ8uoQ7FZi_ItJon_RGLb6aRgsTmEWLfJkcZ74ZlPylBxIn6He5sazX8h7e7Rx0p3zJjcWtA/s400/DSCF3162a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="400" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiIx6EnpBwpD2lwAHOpwxB-tH3huOyH3YHMUtOgKzjiR6Gy4rFZjeOetdM7UaEZ72BlRmFI9MzcK_GYXIkdaIJwl03BFdfrSVsrg5DmCNRnlL_f0i_XNJ8uoQ7FZi_ItJon_RGLb6aRgsTmEWLfJkcZ74ZlPylBxIn6He5sazX8h7e7Rx0p3zJjcWtA/w400-h328/DSCF3162a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div> First of all, the instrument panel is a different shape to the fuselage contour into which it is introduced, smaller, so it’s not simply a case of reshaping it with a bit of file work. This is a blunder I would not have expected of Hasegawa. Second, there is no positive location device for the panel either, so you’d be trying to tack it in place and keep your fingers crossed that it stays there. Third, the cockpit tub, though it assembles as a box structure, is not so accurately molded as to remove the tendency for the left wall to toe-in, so that the upper edge overhangs the cockpit sill. Fourth, there is no solid ledge against which the tub can be seated, so you’re supergluing it at its contact points and hoping for the best.</div><div><em><br /></em></div><div><em>Hoping for the best?</em> This is Hasegawa we’re talking about! The big guy, the one who makes Fujimi look second-rate! My solution was to glue the instrument panel to the cockpit walls and reinforce the joint with some scrap styrene, then use angle stock to reinforce the mounting surfaces behind the seat and some rod alongside the edges (below). With this lot it will hopefully stand up to the amount of handling to come without the panel becoming detached and disappearing forever inside. This was after a silly amount of fiddling, pulling apart and re-gluing, and the panel falling off and trying to vanish under my desk three times: not the experience I expect from this company.
</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTKitLPOrzvUQuMcAMG1bN34unmzzQcSyIZmNdMoVu-LDrIh-8jmbJLApetvr2NuqaKO6Sf7oW111v2_gsDz_3U1Rk0QpczDK-SHEoN_uQHuyhhIlT8RnT9KHwN4C5T_81nRhDV0FGCm8L-VwKk_iPJCdzCetxDidlwGP7GLgi7IlaxhYFXYBWRnTmw/s400/DSCF3164a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTKitLPOrzvUQuMcAMG1bN34unmzzQcSyIZmNdMoVu-LDrIh-8jmbJLApetvr2NuqaKO6Sf7oW111v2_gsDz_3U1Rk0QpczDK-SHEoN_uQHuyhhIlT8RnT9KHwN4C5T_81nRhDV0FGCm8L-VwKk_iPJCdzCetxDidlwGP7GLgi7IlaxhYFXYBWRnTmw/w400-h300/DSCF3164a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>And <em>not</em> the experience I <em>had</em> with Tamiya. It’s been pondered why Tamiya have not yet expanded their 1:48th scale range to embrace the multitudinous possibilities of the Bf 109 F, G and K series aircraft, and the standard answer must be that Hasegawa have that market sewn up, with Hobbycraft taking up the slack for the cheap end of the field. ICM’s F-series planes are also very good, and strong contenders in the same race. But after my experience with the cockpit of this model I am dismayed to see that Hasegawa have used this device as standard engineering, certainly on their other Bf 109s, and the fact is that if Tamiya was to offer me brand new tooling of these subjects, engineered the way their other planes are, I would buy them in preference ever after. With Invisi-Clear decals such a kit would build as a stunner right out of the box.</div><div><br /></div><div>So I find myself now doubly cautious about the asking price of models these days: Hasegawa’s K-4 is nearly Aus$40 on the shelf here, and that’s a lot of wedge for the firm to fall down on the details. I’m not asking companies to be perfect in every aspect, I have no doubt that this will be a superb subject in my display case when it’s finished, but I do look for sensible engineering where strength and fit are crucial. For instance the keyed alignment of the landing gear struts in Hasegawa’s 1:48th scale P-51D – a marvellous bit of planning and forethought. Maybe divinity really is in the details, and if so the race for sainthood will never be over: let’s just say, this cockpit fubar has delayed Hasegawa’s beatification slightly!</div>Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-28576193022047046582022-12-04T12:37:00.004+10:302022-12-04T12:37:50.192+10:30Talk About Busy!<p>This is less a post about modelling than about the reason for the absence of that quantity--this has been an exceptionally busy year for me in my writing career, including work on two novels, and I have not completed a single model project during 2022!</p><p>I have a couple in fairly advanced stages--a Trumpeter 1/35 LAV-25 to be completed in USMC markings for Iraq (Desert Storm), and an old Italeri F-100D to be finished in markings for the 48th TFW, from a vintage Superscale sheet. I hope to have both done before the end of the year, maybe even work on another, but I'll be happy if I can close out the year with two finished projects.</p><p>To be fair, I've also had airbrush problems--my trusty Paasche VL developed a fault late last year which required service attention, some new parts, and I had trouble seating the new syphon tube in such a way it would pick up paint properly. This deterred me from the model bench for a long time, freeing me for writing work, but eventually I switched out the tube for the old part--vintage 1989--and it picks up paint just right--so I'm back on as far as paintwork goes.</p><p>Then there's the saga of waiting for parts--I needed etched diamond mesh for the LAV (it's the original issue, before Trumpeter added an etched fret for the bustle rack and engine grills). I've chased lots of options but nothing is actually correct and I'm aware I'm looking for a "nearest option" solution. I might just hang a lot of stowage in the rack to disguise the fact the mesh is not right!</p><p>I have a long list of models in various stages of completion, some have been waiting years for attention, and I hope to get a few off the shelf of limbo and into the display case during next year, mixed in with some new builds. I have a hankering for a Tamiya Spitfire I, and have the Eduard and AML mask sets lined up, along with aftermarket decals for Johnny Johnson's Battle of Britain mount.</p><p>I'll also try to pay this blog the attention it deserves in future!</p><p>Thanks for reading,</p><p>Cheers,</p><p><br /></p><p>Mike Adamson</p><p><br /></p>Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-89661833036238888032021-04-22T13:10:00.001+09:302021-04-22T13:18:22.916+09:30Long Time, No See!<p> I last posted here nearly two years ago, and that's crazy, I'm the first to admit! What happened, you ask? Well, in a nutshell, my lighting system died on me, and I had no way to properly photograph my models at publication quality. I keep meaning to either get it repaired or replace it--I need the light for building, plain and simple, and have been making do with daylight, as best I can... No wonder I've churned out only small numbers of projects in the last two years.</p><p>It hasn't actually stopped me building, but my eyes are not what they used to be, and the photos I can get in natural light leave a lot to be desired. I've done maybe a dozen models since I last posted, and will post about those projects when I can do them justice.</p><p>My most ambitious build is probably the Hobby Boss 1:72 F-14A, from last year, a lengthy and complex project, both structurally and at the painting stage. My simplest, probably the 1:72 Moebius Viper VII, also from last year.</p><p>This blog has been around for a great many years and I hate to see it languish. I do intend to fix up my working lights and get back to the bench the way I used to! Posting the finished results and discussing projects is part of the pleasure of the hobby!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBKBfle6yDnNKVR-1G9e_IChaKjvPXmgbBo9ntsg6r9MJ9D7u9OTGqtaPj0Gfxn8rAvpSVhhCIC93h16qINqbXEJlCXh2Manr15vNOt-7mg4FlQ0l9qF2B8cGwC16aX9xLnC6Bu7hhjBCv/s858/DSCF6647a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="858" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBKBfle6yDnNKVR-1G9e_IChaKjvPXmgbBo9ntsg6r9MJ9D7u9OTGqtaPj0Gfxn8rAvpSVhhCIC93h16qINqbXEJlCXh2Manr15vNOt-7mg4FlQ0l9qF2B8cGwC16aX9xLnC6Bu7hhjBCv/w400-h251/DSCF6647a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhQhYwTDYpJcUACxvKFhq33MO6TxtUXwUuPp4cfczu71OzLc-h6SWKXUWK6pxxnnaPu7b2y0Q9PxrZxCngZmztiOyBnt6H8s-NAmXuP6sZSGorkiaoqdx9xiY2Ea2-L9Y0dgEy0LKzPKQ/s799/DSCF7459a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="799" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhQhYwTDYpJcUACxvKFhq33MO6TxtUXwUuPp4cfczu71OzLc-h6SWKXUWK6pxxnnaPu7b2y0Q9PxrZxCngZmztiOyBnt6H8s-NAmXuP6sZSGorkiaoqdx9xiY2Ea2-L9Y0dgEy0LKzPKQ/w400-h313/DSCF7459a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-66636271025503598802019-07-06T13:18:00.002+09:302019-07-06T14:07:12.218+09:30It Worked!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjilFw8JIp1jnVRczIi501C06GG3BW7DF1q-B9oZXuIwCHB97wMC-8LO2qzPyD08U5spDpaqOoUJjCKF4__SpHE8MaA2cGD5JC2L9aosahw-d25I5DvskMFO_xHLodBwSCxKpHHnrXjlALO/s1600/DSCF3520a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="882" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjilFw8JIp1jnVRczIi501C06GG3BW7DF1q-B9oZXuIwCHB97wMC-8LO2qzPyD08U5spDpaqOoUJjCKF4__SpHE8MaA2cGD5JC2L9aosahw-d25I5DvskMFO_xHLodBwSCxKpHHnrXjlALO/s400/DSCF3520a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sometimes the manufacturers really do know what they’re
talking about… I’ve been working on Tamiya’s 1:12<sup>th</sup> scale Suzuki
Katana off and on, a 2017 build that’s been on the shelf (full build post to
come) and the wheel rims are in bright finish, which Tamiya recommend be done
with an X-11 Chrome Silver enamel paint marker pen. I’ve never used their paint markers
before and ordered one up with some trepidation, thoughts of floods of paint or
dried-up tips going through my mind.</div>
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I searched YouTube for how-to videos and found one out of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Russia</st1:country-region> which,
though I could follow not a word, was pretty self-explanatory as far as
appropriate touch for applying the tip to a surface was concerned. Even so, I
put the job off at least a month before there was not one other thing to do on
the project before this task.</div>
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Of course, when I finally opened the marker, gave it a good
shake and started the flow, it worked perfectly. The corner of the chisel-tip
seated comfortably into the wheel rim and I applied the paint in short,
controlled sections. Before I knew it, it was done and the parts were set aside
to dry. Some commentaries have remarked that this can take a long time, into
the second day and still tacky, but I find myself wondering if that indicates
the paint was insufficiently agitated beforehand. This oaint was dry in an hour.</div>
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The bright silver rim does not show up very well in
the available-light photo at top, and the marker pen, which ships in a plastic
shrink-wrap, has been resealed with tape at the cap juncture, to preserve paint
life. The picture below shows the front wheel, with a gunmetal finish, and the chrome rim shines beautifully in a flash shot.</div>
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When these parts are ready to be handled, I can do most of
the remaining build-up, indeed the only painting left to do is the front brake
units and the rubber protector around the windshield transparency (fiddly
masking required on both). But this project should hopefully come together
quite quickly now.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Cheers, Mike Adamson</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-42973427963327440582019-07-04T13:13:00.000+09:302019-07-06T13:23:28.675+09:30Kit Review: MPC/Round 2 Space: 1999 MK. IX Hawk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDS66W1CJGd5FfSTvjwx53TQGrYFUtZ42IfqOMT7bSYqhLhV700HvAS6l-MDCExUHi_t0RxUH6LLPGGqpNS68YU5Uut-0KkUCBK3i4pgnEg1_Q0GDaMWeiKzr-AylSh-n30ZKHfEUY-ub/s1600/Hawk+box+art.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="660" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDS66W1CJGd5FfSTvjwx53TQGrYFUtZ42IfqOMT7bSYqhLhV700HvAS6l-MDCExUHi_t0RxUH6LLPGGqpNS68YU5Uut-0KkUCBK3i4pgnEg1_Q0GDaMWeiKzr-AylSh-n30ZKHfEUY-ub/s400/Hawk+box+art.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I can’t remember the last science fiction model kit I
completed. I have a few in my stash but I actively can’t remember completing
one in recent times, so this Hawk is rather a milestone. In the late 70s I did
a couple of the very disappointing MPC Eagles (under the Airfix label), and
obtained their Hawk as a built example from the famous collector Phil Rae ten
or more years back, but brand new kits from this cult TV classic have started
to come available in the last few years from <a href="https://round2corp.com/product-category/mpc/">Round 2</a>, under the MPC label, as a direct result of interaction between company
manager Jamie Hood and both the fans who would be buying the product on one
hand, and the leading experts on the originals, on the other. This fusion
culminated in the Eagle Transporter kit in 1:48<sup>th</sup> scale, which has
done great business and spawned a family of secondary releases. The first
guest-star hardware to join the family is a 1:72<sup>nd</sup> scale Hawk.</div>
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The Hawk appeared in the episode <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wargames</i>, familiar Earth craft which mysteriously appeared from an
alien planet and attacked Alpha. They were mental projections, plucked from the
Alphans’ own minds, as was the entire unfolding scenario of destruction, as a
means to persuade the humans not to attempt to settle on the planet they were
passing, no matter how compatible it seemed. This meant a craft could be
designed to reflect the same general era and mode of design as the familiar
Eagles, which leant itself to rapid production of the needed models. Two were
built, a definitive model scaled to the 1:24<sup>th</sup> scale Eagle, and a
distance model at 1:48<sup>th</sup> scale. They were very different in detail
when studied together (both have survived and are well documented
photographically, and appear at fan conventions).</div>
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Round 2 based their detailing on the “hero” 1:24<sup>th</sup>
scale Hawk and on inspection I was most impressed with the degree to which
almost every detail of the original has been captured at one third the size. I
studied the Hawk with a view to building a studio scale replica some years ago,
amassing a fair bit of reference material in the process, and as a result I am able to say that the company has captured the important features to an amazing
degree. Proportion and detail, including precise replication of the kit parts
used as dressing on the original, are all there. The only notable exception I
could find was the absence of the ribbing on the Saturn V-derived parts, this
being more than likely due to the limitations of moulding technology. When the
firm produces the promised 1:48<sup>th</sup> scale version to go with the
larger Eagle, this omission will hopefully be corrected.</div>
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Assembly was quite straight forward, though fit was not as
crisp as one might have hoped for, giving rise to some seams to be dressed,
mainly on the command module sides and where the fuselage, split in upper and
lower halves, comes together just behind the stub wings, and at the rear.
Otherwise there were few hassles. The worst parts are the tiny Lunar Module
legs, five of which are produced at a third their original size. The originals were
forever breaking on the studio model, and these are so fragile you hardly dare
breathe on them. The one above the cockpit broke and was repaired four times,
while the ones around the engine barely fit (locator holes in the wrong
places?) and the modeller is reduced to “superglue and prayer” — not ideal.
Whitemetal replacement parts would be highly desirable.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOIsr3SXb-ID8aqctkohf7khyphenhyphens3oxnNoTW0tx-zC9CkZhzG_jOY89Mnb1UvayStlI1v8am4SmvlGdhIDJ0G8eQ8ULjN91J6g3yf6Ar3RuONjwBQG4t8Hpv-dG4G5ORGW6JvNuoeELfW6N/s1600/DSCF3411a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="834" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOIsr3SXb-ID8aqctkohf7khyphenhyphens3oxnNoTW0tx-zC9CkZhzG_jOY89Mnb1UvayStlI1v8am4SmvlGdhIDJ0G8eQ8ULjN91J6g3yf6Ar3RuONjwBQG4t8Hpv-dG4G5ORGW6JvNuoeELfW6N/s320/DSCF3411a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgitVKvGZdSMVUvrOabdE6JGyQFi797jHCFGkkXOfak4P9j5MYH2ZUgn002MvwGwJvog0BKsLlJBUECQXcl0FzSRQeI4n_RrSVJ1rIt_hXRVYv8cmeN2NcYMv8I9AiLkeyelnOefWOjtQS5/s1600/DSCF3412a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="799" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgitVKvGZdSMVUvrOabdE6JGyQFi797jHCFGkkXOfak4P9j5MYH2ZUgn002MvwGwJvog0BKsLlJBUECQXcl0FzSRQeI4n_RrSVJ1rIt_hXRVYv8cmeN2NcYMv8I9AiLkeyelnOefWOjtQS5/s400/DSCF3412a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I built the model in subassemblies, the lateral boosters and
engine, solar panel and underslung weapons pods, the X-girders, plus the
underside girder/rod/pipe parts all being completed separately, including
decals and topcoats, and brought together at the end. This eased painting of
the fuselage and side boosters, and I noticed that proper alignment of these
units to each other depends largely on all parts coming together in one go—so
they needed to be fully finished at that point.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEh44biIhTMuBDn3gdo63GS-uXkyGAzozww4UdLj9pFzac9rrvQwDMik1KDVWHk08RZf8MPd5YMU48i7zDoZtY9P3yUsGihNefkQNWAeO4KFHaR4lw44XV1TjJ_TliPTBMRGcSwi7921h1/s1600/DSCF3418a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="874" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEh44biIhTMuBDn3gdo63GS-uXkyGAzozww4UdLj9pFzac9rrvQwDMik1KDVWHk08RZf8MPd5YMU48i7zDoZtY9P3yUsGihNefkQNWAeO4KFHaR4lw44XV1TjJ_TliPTBMRGcSwi7921h1/s400/DSCF3418a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In 1:72<sup>nd</sup> scale no cockpit is provided, just
black decals for the windows. The Hawk’s interior was never shown in the
program so any attempt to add one to a kit is an exercise in what-if. It will
be interesting to see how the company tackles the issue at larger scale.</div>
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The biggest “wow” factor was the decals. The sheet is very
finely printed, featuring over 130 markings for the craft as seen on-screen
(orange trim) or the prototype model (white overall). I did the latter for
simplicity, though picked up two kits and will do the on-screen version at a
later date. The decals reproduce every marking seen on the original, including
many which were actually drawn on by hand. They behaved very well indeed, were
a delight to work with, and reacted well enough to Microscale chemistry. The
small coloured bands took some work to wrap around the girders, several
applications of Microsol were needed to get them to conform, and they could
have done with being somewhat longer to wrap fully and seal to themselves. The
anti-glare panel decals were sprayed with Micro Flat and trimmed closely from
the backing paper, producing a decent flat finish in those areas, contrasting
with the satin finish white I selected overall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0qo0sVlk3TPx50Aa8QpfeH6XvkM8GYrR9Z70ivwt9_rkZki0kSJAv8EcHEV6pPuCDUPP1nzP0R6SDBBHqTGSucuAyJJ3TmjC5nRDDrpxGzs1AO-8AkrdOCX9JGHFdSxUrZ47gRfrDYYDX/s1600/DSCF3423a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="680" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0qo0sVlk3TPx50Aa8QpfeH6XvkM8GYrR9Z70ivwt9_rkZki0kSJAv8EcHEV6pPuCDUPP1nzP0R6SDBBHqTGSucuAyJJ3TmjC5nRDDrpxGzs1AO-8AkrdOCX9JGHFdSxUrZ47gRfrDYYDX/s640/DSCF3423a.jpg" width="476" /></a></div>
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Improvements are always possible, and when I do the second
kit I’ll make some small changes. The original had rows of holes drilled into
the leading edges of the stub wings, weapon pods and solar panels, and these
are represented as silver dots on the decal sheet. Dressing those edges very
carefully to fully eliminate mould lines and drilling in the holes is an
obvious enhancement. Being forewarned about those LM legs might ease that
aspect too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyccrOiPz6KXrjeRxqbB-Lv8LxsQ2Ccqs-IWj0Sv7UQd74TvVrKUgYj_wbY09vuremdDNlJWUTaOIZe-Bi_sH20H7MuEWFnTVBU3x1jezzMDuOee2hc5yDnPYANpyTEOgU9Jph5UKJRugK/s1600/DSCF3430a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="831" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyccrOiPz6KXrjeRxqbB-Lv8LxsQ2Ccqs-IWj0Sv7UQd74TvVrKUgYj_wbY09vuremdDNlJWUTaOIZe-Bi_sH20H7MuEWFnTVBU3x1jezzMDuOee2hc5yDnPYANpyTEOgU9Jph5UKJRugK/s400/DSCF3430a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyK0O_RJWIdj5Q6GoEN4KfdRVR1tD1Ne_S8qesC5uTddEtwPa8RbzDTT2Eel8y5I2mzaYXZhTLiBIsEq8DsQq-7ybNM1DjtQSFJ6sAULPPGoI8WWzfEGbl-W4YVSJi2DlLHEF-P2byJmn/s1600/DSCF3436a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="698" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyK0O_RJWIdj5Q6GoEN4KfdRVR1tD1Ne_S8qesC5uTddEtwPa8RbzDTT2Eel8y5I2mzaYXZhTLiBIsEq8DsQq-7ybNM1DjtQSFJ6sAULPPGoI8WWzfEGbl-W4YVSJi2DlLHEF-P2byJmn/s320/DSCF3436a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The model was a pleasure to build, notwithdstanding the
acute frustration of those aforementioned LM parts. On the provided stand it
looks the part, and is a milestone as the first fully accurate depiction of
this craft to be produced as a conventional styrene kit. If the larger version
eventuates, it will build upon the experience from this one, and be the perfect
compliment to the big Eagle—as surely as the soon-to-be-released 1:72<sup>nd</sup>
scale Eagle compliments this Hawk.</div>
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Full marks to Jamie Hood and Round 2 for giving us the kits
we craved long ago and never expected to be possible!</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8lGPUSxilypzStXx_6UYEvXpl-Na1yo9HjGQ0wVG_loP7za3VQNmRXurY9i0X3lgOTCTDhdNSuxoCsr5V6VOIPDQEWDXnUgWHydVazoLmOAk2GkxdFp6L2Kh7-cH486VtGsjGbSr1GQ3/s1600/DSCF3439a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="870" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8lGPUSxilypzStXx_6UYEvXpl-Na1yo9HjGQ0wVG_loP7za3VQNmRXurY9i0X3lgOTCTDhdNSuxoCsr5V6VOIPDQEWDXnUgWHydVazoLmOAk2GkxdFp6L2Kh7-cH486VtGsjGbSr1GQ3/s320/DSCF3439a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-60132412031311254062019-04-05T14:54:00.000+10:302019-04-10T15:42:04.778+09:30Recently Completed: Fujimi 1:72 F-86F (Kit No. F-18)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXmxDvbRGk3iictdmGFDNJ_lvNIc-qXiXm1FxuM6gNnUiVQILV9smZmhhUs2BIQkgpucvvaAWvVVVRbxL9YwwWiUV6WGb_AYx3eSOo_WXQOz8uiaJFGzSvlf4LCEflOXzbwD-uU6rpDIg/s1600/145747-11185-16-pristine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="302" data-original-width="640" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXmxDvbRGk3iictdmGFDNJ_lvNIc-qXiXm1FxuM6gNnUiVQILV9smZmhhUs2BIQkgpucvvaAWvVVVRbxL9YwwWiUV6WGb_AYx3eSOo_WXQOz8uiaJFGzSvlf4LCEflOXzbwD-uU6rpDIg/s400/145747-11185-16-pristine.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I’ve only done two Sabres previously – the Airfix F-86D when
I was a kid, and the Matchbox F-86A at a teenager. The Sabre is a very elegant
and impressive plane, historically and technically important, and surprisingly
long-lived – I was not really aware of the fact at the time, but there were
Sabres still flying with several countries, in secondary roles, certainly, at
the beginning of the 1980s. This example, as befits a Japanese kit, is a
Mitsubishi-built Sabre, distinguished by the small engine bay intake on the
right rear fuselage.</div>
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This is only my third completed Fujimi kit, the others being
their Ju-87 G-2 Stuka and A-7A Corsair II, in the same scale. It was quite a
fun build but their engineering leaves a bit to be desired, creating problems
of alignment – all around parts fit was nothing to write home about, and did
the instruction to add nose weight <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">have</i>
to be in Japanese? The parts look good in the box – also very familiar, I built
a Hobbycraft F-86E many years ago, part of a conversion project which is still
incomplete, and it’s quite obviously the Fujimi kit reboxed. The kit features
excellent recessed detail, deep enough to take a wash and hold it, but the
separate gun panels are a pain, as the fit is far from exact. They were tooled
separately to facilitate swapping out for camera nose parts on the RF-86, an
example of stretching the mould applicability at cost of builder ease.
Likewise, the air brakes can be posed open, and do not fit as precisely as they
should for the closed option.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63XaEtjsZ1Jl78vDb0I5yKVdBUb4mV8oZT_-Ua0rx4qCz-YT6U1EIEzcbr4Sh1JqJD22OdfcRDSokciVCC27slJ7Nl_Ay8uP24m6xYX1pbx8PYPrAiyQ09CCq-U5IMJwu2ioGxIasGk2H/s1600/DSCF2930a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="793" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63XaEtjsZ1Jl78vDb0I5yKVdBUb4mV8oZT_-Ua0rx4qCz-YT6U1EIEzcbr4Sh1JqJD22OdfcRDSokciVCC27slJ7Nl_Ay8uP24m6xYX1pbx8PYPrAiyQ09CCq-U5IMJwu2ioGxIasGk2H/s400/DSCF2930a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Nevertheless, the kit builds quite well. It features the
unslatted “6-3” wing, a pair of AIM-9B Sidewinders and pylons, and a choice of
raised instrument details or decals. The decals would never lie down over the
3D detail, so drybrushing was used to bring out the instruments. The instrument
decals were also far from crisp depictions.<br />
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The decal sheet provides sets of individual numbers so you
can build any F-86 in the fleet (except the 500-series serials on the RF birds),
though this invites alignment problems in the tail codes and makes for a lot
more work. I chose a bird from No. 8 Squadron, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Komaki</st1:city> <st1:state w:st="on">AB</st1:state></st1:place>,
August 1977, sourced from a photograph, a fairly plain scheme which obviated
messing on with masking for colour trim. The black and yellow stripes on the
Sidewinders came from the Hasegawa US missile set (X72-3), though I used the
Fujimi missiles.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLAWCdjguWNObBwYbRAwyL9qTAjXJv1cZ4uDNMOKAnL29FHGDOW_9fqSzMJ1xQKjlAdT3yitY6n5qngOfCoBeXhWlv2ZaMOg_EJFKLQpQHz1rg7HVGyRro1QsQgqqjBG9sEWUyt7P5x9H/s1600/DSCF2937a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="438" data-original-width="668" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLAWCdjguWNObBwYbRAwyL9qTAjXJv1cZ4uDNMOKAnL29FHGDOW_9fqSzMJ1xQKjlAdT3yitY6n5qngOfCoBeXhWlv2ZaMOg_EJFKLQpQHz1rg7HVGyRro1QsQgqqjBG9sEWUyt7P5x9H/s320/DSCF2937a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Speaking of the decals, they were very matte, took their
time separating from the backing sheet, and during the softening time exuded a
milky goop I can only assume is the decal adhesive as it resembled nothing so
closely as PVA whiteglue. I wiped away the majority and the decals adhered
perfectly with what remained. The decals overall behaved better than I feared
they might, so I’m inclined to give the kit sheets a go in more Fujimi outings
of similar vintage.</div>
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I used my standard approach to painting metallic finishes, Tamiya
XF-16 Flat Aluminium, overcoated with Microscale Satin, but resisted the
impulse to use graphite to create panel variation as these birds seem to have
been in metallic paint rather than natural metal, and were well-maintained,
therefore clean and tidy. No weathering was applied to this model. The gun
panels were probably stainless steel and always look darker, so graphite was
used for this effect.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYgAHRMxx3-hh0HsiXv__mFcFigEbduNuv2LBIpNOtE2Iv76JFGs4l856RS0t29maoX9QYuoPvkkUKs5MDHNS66uxwdllUQ1F1i0cP5rft-uk-PW_kGsbox71XL19dDCQr_rMpFtGu2JI/s1600/DSCF2933a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="769" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYgAHRMxx3-hh0HsiXv__mFcFigEbduNuv2LBIpNOtE2Iv76JFGs4l856RS0t29maoX9QYuoPvkkUKs5MDHNS66uxwdllUQ1F1i0cP5rft-uk-PW_kGsbox71XL19dDCQr_rMpFtGu2JI/s320/DSCF2933a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are a few errors and omissions – joint lines needed
more work, nothing shows up defects like metallics! Joints I would have sworn
were perfect, adzed, then milled with wet 1200-grade paper, showed up hairline
gaps under paint. Also, the fit of the jet intake pipe is not perfectly
centralised and thus does not line up well with the nose part, necessitating
work with a round rat-tail file in the intake to try to minimise the mis-match.
I had tried chocking the fit with styrene shims, but it needed more. Next time
I do a Fujimi Sabre I’ll know what to look out for. Same with the weight to
keep her from being a tail-sitter, it should be superglued behind the gun
panels, but the bird was finished before I noticed “3g” among the Japanese
script and realised it was telling me to weight the nose. Two grams turned out
to be enough, and the crushed lead shot is in fact simply lying deep in the
intake trunk.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKtYCH0FjetUirVEnks88Nq4H6O-jP9aymsqsU-ZXMkdkHzX5KTS0JjQgIeKnE32xDkc4az68k-8ddBvIYHQitPhlja4JGAwM7YqgnYpzaL-qtOIA4frikiRr2EcJS9i880cvcv3S9ouOc/s1600/DSCF2935a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="731" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKtYCH0FjetUirVEnks88Nq4H6O-jP9aymsqsU-ZXMkdkHzX5KTS0JjQgIeKnE32xDkc4az68k-8ddBvIYHQitPhlja4JGAwM7YqgnYpzaL-qtOIA4frikiRr2EcJS9i880cvcv3S9ouOc/s320/DSCF2935a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I mis-cued on masking in the wheel well, calling for brush
touch-ups (in FS 34102, it seems North American used a green darker than
Interior Green/Zinc Chromate for their gear bays on both major lineages of the
Sabre). At the end of the day some details were left unpainted – a tiny black
panel on the tail plane, plus the radome of the radar gunsight, because, with
the rest of the model finished, I simply did not trust my wobbly hands to spot
in that detail, especially with the brushing characteristics of Tammy acrylics.
Risk spoiling the job at the last moment? I don’t think so!</div>
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I have a couple more E and F Sabres from Fujimi in my stash,
and a couple of the Airfix tooling from several years ago, in the guise of the
Canadair Sabre Mk. 4, to play with. I hope to line up a representative
selection of Sabres in time, detailing the colourful schemes and range of
variation among this milestone fighter’s thousands of examples.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjukng6C-O5xAh4dIfmmF8RFxp0K7OXbIk-0u5Shyphenhyphenrf6PjwiigL_q2fTgCFgTcJXhkMUSZ1ulUB3N6NWiu100TfVEHOSkVesaZKR1hDX8Hh-32JKbiFhiizhd9bpv-xyEorWUd5JnfCEmy_/s1600/DSCF2942a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="868" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjukng6C-O5xAh4dIfmmF8RFxp0K7OXbIk-0u5Shyphenhyphenrf6PjwiigL_q2fTgCFgTcJXhkMUSZ1ulUB3N6NWiu100TfVEHOSkVesaZKR1hDX8Hh-32JKbiFhiizhd9bpv-xyEorWUd5JnfCEmy_/s320/DSCF2942a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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On the bench in the not too distant future will be the
Italeri F-100 Super Sabre, wearing Superscale decals and featuring a variegated
metal finish.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR0sSvYqCCrn4XlMj3Byd8LW8gdWe3fGdktCXUueB6yX3CPoz1tJG4hXCF77TTfMWM8WNvPdHXlQzG_mYsoaZRTZvB13RagHuv4k6CALFPQ04uVN7jSZwaqWJE31mC2dSewrnCdpEoU_5a/s1600/DSCF2939a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="797" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR0sSvYqCCrn4XlMj3Byd8LW8gdWe3fGdktCXUueB6yX3CPoz1tJG4hXCF77TTfMWM8WNvPdHXlQzG_mYsoaZRTZvB13RagHuv4k6CALFPQ04uVN7jSZwaqWJE31mC2dSewrnCdpEoU_5a/s400/DSCF2939a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-9702360022994928962019-03-06T23:50:00.003+10:302019-03-06T23:50:51.604+10:30A Proud Moment!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyF16jpDm5qHfN5SDMWR2Xb8L_wj1WAnGkA8L1dln8pr69Rd08uR6fEskxmOxu2jrbFNV-lKUB1SpPqUolR7nulocqS_XsD0ucovyNDKKYMgQOH13S2fPqRLVOprU-ckqhnGJyH_9rFFNM/s1600/AMC+Header_a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="856" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyF16jpDm5qHfN5SDMWR2Xb8L_wj1WAnGkA8L1dln8pr69Rd08uR6fEskxmOxu2jrbFNV-lKUB1SpPqUolR7nulocqS_XsD0ucovyNDKKYMgQOH13S2fPqRLVOprU-ckqhnGJyH_9rFFNM/s400/AMC+Header_a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It’s always nice when one’s hobby output is appreciated by
others, and this week (first week of March, 2019) a rare pleasure came my way
when a photo from my Tamiya Corsair shoot (see last post) was selected by the
administrators of the Airfix Modelling Club page on Facebook as the new
header/banner image.</div>
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Nothing like this has come my way before and I can only
describe myself as pleased as punch! It’s a genuine delight to see my work used
in such a context, as I’ve felt the models chosen to lead into the page have
always been of the highest quality. It’s a great compliment, and an
encouragement to do even better!</div>
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Next up, Sabre, Bf 109, F-4J…</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-32179749771002919532019-03-03T16:04:00.000+10:302019-03-03T16:06:44.267+10:30Recently Completed: Tamiya 1:48 F4U-1 Corsair (Birdcage), #61046<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibcrQm6Wst7ZPJ-OREFHzOyowR8erjb9-bdhyvK3XcSWzfEeNyb2cxAxai_IXriq8MVnsEik0Uip7BiOwmrJzPIWIdT06UkYGNRYHSQ2xKohyphenhyphen04KB_gU136emhXIeJmjnuPqh31KSJb0gq/s1600/TAM-61046-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="348" data-original-width="498" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibcrQm6Wst7ZPJ-OREFHzOyowR8erjb9-bdhyvK3XcSWzfEeNyb2cxAxai_IXriq8MVnsEik0Uip7BiOwmrJzPIWIdT06UkYGNRYHSQ2xKohyphenhyphen04KB_gU136emhXIeJmjnuPqh31KSJb0gq/s400/TAM-61046-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As a modeller who tends to have something like three dozen
uncompleted projects at any one time, it’s always nice to get an older one past
the finish line. This was a 2017 build that’s been playing shelf queen waiting
for final details and paintwork ever since (it was a matter of display space,
which opened up not long ago when I boxed for storage a batch of projects from around
five years ago.)</div>
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This is the 1996 kit from the grand masters in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Shizuoka</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">City</st1:placetype></st1:place>, and a sweet build it is. It can
pull the odd surprise, but overall is a pretty friendly kit. To wit – the ovoid
transparencies for rearward view on the fuselage sides are incorrectly
identified in the plans, the numbers are reversed – swap them port and
starboard and the parts fit perfectly. Interestingly, the masks for these parts
on the Eduard sheet are also reversed!</div>
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The cockpit is quite well detailed, and if the canopy is to
be closed you’ll see little enough. I used the decal seat harness supplied, and
painted everything a dark bronze-green, as research suggested the cockpit shade
of the time was somewhere about FS 34092.</div>
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I decided to depict a bird from VMF-213, companion squadron
to -214, which became the Black Sheep,
when they entered combat in the Solomons campaign in February, 1943, the first
Corsairs in-theatre. This is the two-tone scheme, which later gave way to
three-tone, and finally to overall Sea Blue Gloss and its variations. I’m
currently enjoying the 1976 series <i>Black
Sheep Squadron</i>, which, though unavoidably compromised at a historical
detail level, gives you a look at Corsairs in the field and the kind of effects
the conditions created in their appearance. Solomons Corsairs were battered and
heavily weathered by the elements, caked with dust and mud – one can certainly
go to town on the weathering process, though I fancied something a little
cleaner. Okay, a bird fairly fresh on the line!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuYjMAo0PERrgOjaJ4snotfo4AVl1w2ZsrZdkZNlssokFGEnIvpg6sd564LSomBiesQL-H-4lVvkucuh7aFdqY1B5lK5FVG272MO0F_A3uWw7ogN5pZSyb6BZOPv2LA6Jdb_VYcM-aRl1/s1600/DSCF2908a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="856" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuYjMAo0PERrgOjaJ4snotfo4AVl1w2ZsrZdkZNlssokFGEnIvpg6sd564LSomBiesQL-H-4lVvkucuh7aFdqY1B5lK5FVG272MO0F_A3uWw7ogN5pZSyb6BZOPv2LA6Jdb_VYcM-aRl1/s400/DSCF2908a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Tamiya Corsair is very well engineered, when it came out
I recall reviewers raving about its click-fit precision. It’s not <i>quite</i> that easy, the folding wing option
is a PITA to avoid an obvious joint line if building with wings extended, as I
always do. The landing gear is very solidly engineered and fits into big
receivers, but somehow the legs managed to be at different angles, meaning the
wheels were a few millimetres out of alignment…</div>
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The paintwork is Tamiya Acrylics, mixed as per kit specifications
– XF-18 + XF-2 (3:1) for the topside blue-grey, and XF-19 + XF-2 (2:1) for the
underside grey, with soft-masked demarcations. I used Miscroscale Satin to seal
both the paint and the following Florey washes, and Flat as the final low
lustre after decals.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YwvPplriL8tONIIAGtSadxBA9TAhM4EeQ_GDZ6g0Ee3uFNzPCy5qxeejASfjTkqWlweSUECNFzrqi5_QW2Zmceuke7ajq_gnL1GX9XCrbbAllnH2STfLq8DFclEPBDdXCvHqcQBiR4Jv/s1600/DSCF2910a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="643" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YwvPplriL8tONIIAGtSadxBA9TAhM4EeQ_GDZ6g0Ee3uFNzPCy5qxeejASfjTkqWlweSUECNFzrqi5_QW2Zmceuke7ajq_gnL1GX9XCrbbAllnH2STfLq8DFclEPBDdXCvHqcQBiR4Jv/s320/DSCF2910a.jpg" width="291" /></a></div>
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I made standby decals in case the masks pulled the paint off
the canopy struts, but they were unneeded. This means I have 1943 blue-grey
over black, with clear, decal material in stock in case any future USN/Marines project
develops the issue!</div>
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Decals in this edition were by Scalemaster, printed by
Vitachrome, and behaved generally well – I say generally as they did not offer
to pull into engraved detail at all and did not seem to react very well with
Microscale chemistry, wrinkling patchily. The roundel on the right fuselage
side broke up somewhat after application and refused to settle in, being still wrinkled
when dry. I removed it with the old tape trick, and replaced it with an
identical item from a Superscale sheet; the blue is a fractionally different
shade, but nothing the eye really catches. The Superscale item of course snugged
down perfectly – I’d expect nothing else.</div>
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Oil wash and Mig pigments comprise the weathering – when I
get a Prismacolour silver pencil I’ll take a crack at chipping but I aborted
the attempt in paint when it became clear I had no control over the process at
all. My hands seemed to do anything they liked, and I knew to quit before I
made a mess.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjWRVZm7ar_Vo9pcXQYEmR6IFkKVewwmNftSUByzcX_vtNtSAQdC10UCchj-rrPzKbFCW3Gy96vwO7Xn0rBA1m_q1sfMbpzRnz9f_1vtGluVMxYNu16ja5r8MViCRmBFd25cmeBldCHv3K/s1600/DSCF2923a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="839" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjWRVZm7ar_Vo9pcXQYEmR6IFkKVewwmNftSUByzcX_vtNtSAQdC10UCchj-rrPzKbFCW3Gy96vwO7Xn0rBA1m_q1sfMbpzRnz9f_1vtGluVMxYNu16ja5r8MViCRmBFd25cmeBldCHv3K/s320/DSCF2923a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The radio antennas were rigged with EZline, usually the last
task of a model and not my favourite activity. I set the long piece first,
pegged the mast end and managed to hold the thread in tweezers to secure the
tail end (despite cramp in my right thumb…), then pegged the fuselage end of
the short piece to dry over night. The upper juncture of the lines I found I
did not have the dexterity for, no way could I hold the line in tweezers long
enough for superglue to get hold. I made up a contraption of tweezers, two
bulldog clips, a sanding block, a CD and two thicknesses of card that brought
the end of the short piece into contact with the long, and left it to set. The
applications of glue created a thick spot on the line, which suggests a ceramic
insulator or some such, but of course there was nothing there on the real
plane. The line was painted with black, some hull blue was used to touch up
around the glue points and clear flat added to even out the lustre.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKYivHWxtb6Zfwi274tW7V8Q_Rm-ULP1cPo413MC89yD14haDHb96HbQVMhIiOarK7Mn31w1yuRbpM-JV1Vppz7ZY1yPzQSVAMXuAC9y0Xyu5mSHFIrjF6bYAOglL45svwQK0Z1b_5sIn/s1600/DSCF2918a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="907" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKYivHWxtb6Zfwi274tW7V8Q_Rm-ULP1cPo413MC89yD14haDHb96HbQVMhIiOarK7Mn31w1yuRbpM-JV1Vppz7ZY1yPzQSVAMXuAC9y0Xyu5mSHFIrjF6bYAOglL45svwQK0Z1b_5sIn/s320/DSCF2918a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I hope to fit the 1000-pounder on the centreline rack, but
the olive drab I sprayed it a year or more ago is very dark under a clear coat,
dark enough for black decals to probably be waste. I’ll respray it in lightened
olive drab when I next mix that shade, then apply the ProModeller decals for
WWII ordnance and hang the bomb.</div>
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So, some work to do on her in future – hang the bomb, add
the missing pitot probe (the entire project was complete and photographed when
I spotted the omission – d’oh!) plus do the above-mentioned chipping.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWBrBC03n8920A2rEPTKG05nGxmZ72ZCPB-0N0k25McOKiHefAndb6-q7JbvY7hVU23eeh4gEX7DFF1pwlWKnEIc2IxSaT0OqYlSpediLZPvT4C57H3Oo2MRoLMto2qBEf8rHkKJMgh3V/s1600/DSCF2924a_B%2526W.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="483" data-original-width="886" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWBrBC03n8920A2rEPTKG05nGxmZ72ZCPB-0N0k25McOKiHefAndb6-q7JbvY7hVU23eeh4gEX7DFF1pwlWKnEIc2IxSaT0OqYlSpediLZPvT4C57H3Oo2MRoLMto2qBEf8rHkKJMgh3V/s320/DSCF2924a_B%2526W.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Last year I built all 72<sup>nd</sup> scale for reasons of
storage space, and it’s nice to get back to something larger. I’ll be
completing a 1:32<sup>nd</sup> scale Bf 109 in the months ahead, too – at least
that’s the plan!</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-sKrtXhpWfn99hSZCEQkT0APxbA27GysHCBqDePEeEb61Nt822fRQWxzvWHuKUO-CLJSKg1nNulP0E-JMh_Ncs7ZM5fbKW3f4idqNnTROnDj9z4uFE1pSWFe-ES7chWebXg2OpFkYq-y/s1600/DSCF2925a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="907" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-sKrtXhpWfn99hSZCEQkT0APxbA27GysHCBqDePEeEb61Nt822fRQWxzvWHuKUO-CLJSKg1nNulP0E-JMh_Ncs7ZM5fbKW3f4idqNnTROnDj9z4uFE1pSWFe-ES7chWebXg2OpFkYq-y/s320/DSCF2925a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1PlhlIsZX6gygpBivdj1PMnE8_GlvTFh55Cb-3IC0juk-CP6I5GYaRmBEXkjAjIChva9_CtzlGjcljiKLbbUwuXh7RMs0Jkoj8jLNPbJQsCt1Ib_ypIrg-lkWiqrhw-neteqPZDvyIDIN/s1600/DSCF2927a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1415" data-original-width="1600" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1PlhlIsZX6gygpBivdj1PMnE8_GlvTFh55Cb-3IC0juk-CP6I5GYaRmBEXkjAjIChva9_CtzlGjcljiKLbbUwuXh7RMs0Jkoj8jLNPbJQsCt1Ib_ypIrg-lkWiqrhw-neteqPZDvyIDIN/s320/DSCF2927a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-53449054029365578852019-02-16T13:49:00.000+10:302019-02-16T13:51:34.474+10:30Recently Completed Dragon 1:35 Kugelblitz (#6040, ’39-’45 Series)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRVonj0tP_-gGVhKWbcQgkB1CdQEEtia5QzqPDUupo1l3n1uQlm9pbwLZWhNqb7pV76hVdFo6IJ6TmuWh-gFvudTmwcOM3EqbqSqF_S7arsSg2fKGyQXx7kiie1w7w7zQfUK6AGB1t0RS/s1600/box+art.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="341" data-original-width="531" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRVonj0tP_-gGVhKWbcQgkB1CdQEEtia5QzqPDUupo1l3n1uQlm9pbwLZWhNqb7pV76hVdFo6IJ6TmuWh-gFvudTmwcOM3EqbqSqF_S7arsSg2fKGyQXx7kiie1w7w7zQfUK6AGB1t0RS/s320/box+art.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is my second completed Dragon armour kit, and
ironically another on the Pz. IV running gear. The last was their Brummbar,
Series II, a few years back. I’ve always fancied the “Ball Lightning/Fireball”
antiaircraft tank from the very end of the war, the futuristic dome-like turret
catches the attention, so unlike the suicidally open fighting compartments of
earlier designs. I was delighted to snag Dragon’s kit on eBay a few years back,
as I didn’t fancy trying to scratch-build the turret on a standard Pz. IV
chassis (ala Tony Greenland).<br />
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The kit is built out of the box with the exception of
replacing the indie-link tracks with Tamiya vinyls – my ability to handle
indie-link tracks is a matter of record. I’m giving it a go on a kit for which no
substitute is available, but it’s very experimental, and changing out the
plastic for vinyl makes the current project possible for me. Okay, the tracks
are a tiny bit tight, resulting in some toe-in on the idler wheels, but that’s
it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrxtMOyGPIpQJSyBiAa2DOozqhMtmSKsqmwVtYLDJ3H2qaUtU1bNMzlpa2nP3Y7bX1VODIlSOB7mFCCcwpWWiIvz7qMzgMqcP_MBxuTe2vg4-VM7eUfX73TAVU1QBih77kHAHD0MUVgnQX/s1600/DSCF2793a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="857" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrxtMOyGPIpQJSyBiAa2DOozqhMtmSKsqmwVtYLDJ3H2qaUtU1bNMzlpa2nP3Y7bX1VODIlSOB7mFCCcwpWWiIvz7qMzgMqcP_MBxuTe2vg4-VM7eUfX73TAVU1QBih77kHAHD0MUVgnQX/s400/DSCF2793a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is a 2018 build which got as far as the base coast of
the camo before New Year. The paint scheme is based loosely on that created by
Tony Greenland for his conversion/scratch project many years ago, but developed
into something fairly original as I went. The paintwork features Tamiya
acrylics, with the base coat faded for a scale effect, then oversprayed with
XF-11 for the dark green and XF-64 rotbraun, both thinned over the odds and
delivered at higher than usual pressure to achieve a reasonably tight pattern.
The yellow was retouched to fix overspray and better define the balance between
the shades, then a 5% dark yellow glaze was added over the upper surfaces to
tie the camo together. The lower surfaces received a similar glaze of
brown/black to create a road grime base.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8mSXepRz1G7uaMek6GVGBk8tKtrECL0aOcaSh9G3_y559sbEfz4t5-iGRdKjz1TOBhMnxFdaZT1G3TbPynW6g2CUJE2EpdEAjiUL24HmpMCYGW5W8jEJ5yZJjeA0O-TthBOEYemvsu11J/s1600/DSCF2789a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="765" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8mSXepRz1G7uaMek6GVGBk8tKtrECL0aOcaSh9G3_y559sbEfz4t5-iGRdKjz1TOBhMnxFdaZT1G3TbPynW6g2CUJE2EpdEAjiUL24HmpMCYGW5W8jEJ5yZJjeA0O-TthBOEYemvsu11J/s400/DSCF2789a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwFr_TX5Zjp48uNqX6gzg3NSBlsLSMg4cLseJm5K9zAz45ug3ewPwnAcJL2jjSkgSCrC0jonFOO6uK_9JTYfVCzDMj2t6_mGaSAsdttREnD2WshNWkD90NO-Hl8gpeaaC62nHTrp7jinvU/s1600/DSCF2797a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="907" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwFr_TX5Zjp48uNqX6gzg3NSBlsLSMg4cLseJm5K9zAz45ug3ewPwnAcJL2jjSkgSCrC0jonFOO6uK_9JTYfVCzDMj2t6_mGaSAsdttREnD2WshNWkD90NO-Hl8gpeaaC62nHTrp7jinvU/s400/DSCF2797a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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One new technique I worked with here, I wanted a fairly
fresh vehicle with some subtle lustre on the paint, more subtle than
Microscale’s Flat would provide, so I used a couple of coats of straight X-20A
acrylic thinner over the paintwork. It seemed to do the trick, evening the
surface at a fine scale so it picked up a low sheen. Conversely, the underside
gave issues of excess luminosity – after the oil wash was done to create dirt,
oil and rust streaking, the mineral thinners left the whole undercarriage
shining with a high satin look, so I sprayed Tamiya XF-86 Clear Flat – which
did not in fact pull the shine down as far as I would have liked. The overall
upper paintjob is fresh and chipping is minimal but there’s a good build-up of
road grime behind the running gear, plus exhaust carbon from intensive work-up
on the firing ranges. I profiled all edges with pale yellow oils, but did no topside
rust streaking and only minimal dirt spotting.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7WSGrWoA_7a4q1xDVgaOQP9k23ywme6vMZU2u93QudCJ0H8jtEqJP-aSwdHTh3O0za2ac-aq-c5jCpIN0B0wkICseY2t6Byjq1Bw7Y6PGY2j3WbCwYp7wV14ZM8vByVLy-S6T0vwqV1k9/s1600/DSCF2791a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="907" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7WSGrWoA_7a4q1xDVgaOQP9k23ywme6vMZU2u93QudCJ0H8jtEqJP-aSwdHTh3O0za2ac-aq-c5jCpIN0B0wkICseY2t6Byjq1Bw7Y6PGY2j3WbCwYp7wV14ZM8vByVLy-S6T0vwqV1k9/s320/DSCF2791a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ70ZTZs813Lrzu2w6F3hC_pqwvXncVsfjDSyZeBK9W9iOVUY6eJYT3D6m9nqYH-EdB9wo8qy0R4ZnfpgTLHW1kLO5QJiGZsI72nxelJTDOMIGHfR-yhFROh3-eLhEUJtPr8WkeDC2lVgX/s1600/DSCF2794a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="680" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ70ZTZs813Lrzu2w6F3hC_pqwvXncVsfjDSyZeBK9W9iOVUY6eJYT3D6m9nqYH-EdB9wo8qy0R4ZnfpgTLHW1kLO5QJiGZsI72nxelJTDOMIGHfR-yhFROh3-eLhEUJtPr8WkeDC2lVgX/s400/DSCF2794a.jpg" width="361" /></a></div>
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Dragon’s over-complicated approach was not very apparent in
this kit, the assembly seemed quite logical, but the on-vehicle tools were a
headache, just as they were on the Brummbar. The plethora of variants the
company squeezes from the same molds necessitates a constellation of holes and
slots on the underside of the sponsons which you drill out as appropriate to
the subject, to receive the tool pins. This is fine in theory but not in
practice – when you have holes for parts with no pins and pins with no
corresponding holes at all, or a tool with two locator pins, <i>one on each side,</i> it really smacks of
amateurishness, or overambitiousness at best. The tools also interfered with
each other here and there – the tolerances are too fine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSxQWbRbe1BpUsuZ25r_a0sxJqAd7mT1VrwhsD7TrU00gt8Aj0XnluP9uc3LUVqYLTGATMhxMH8eqkKTf32LeYICvWy5GMoR6xXKrwa6izC-VIXzCQHcgwYRJOHy6fAFvUIBXdfIfMGeD/s1600/DSCF2798a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="860" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSxQWbRbe1BpUsuZ25r_a0sxJqAd7mT1VrwhsD7TrU00gt8Aj0XnluP9uc3LUVqYLTGATMhxMH8eqkKTf32LeYICvWy5GMoR6xXKrwa6izC-VIXzCQHcgwYRJOHy6fAFvUIBXdfIfMGeD/s400/DSCF2798a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlAijbN2sU7JCj3glnJvAlynikxQAaxq1k138kwViKGYbVrlogo-FCf3SYQSBpm07jrBtwA35Cs2nazMAfu20QqqU-dYj-1Na9i64ZQNvP4Rrd5ZhHVht_NYDcNJjaNVMTyvmBq173qLL/s1600/DSCF2804a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="817" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlAijbN2sU7JCj3glnJvAlynikxQAaxq1k138kwViKGYbVrlogo-FCf3SYQSBpm07jrBtwA35Cs2nazMAfu20QqqU-dYj-1Na9i64ZQNvP4Rrd5ZhHVht_NYDcNJjaNVMTyvmBq173qLL/s400/DSCF2804a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The decals were not up to much. As the real thing never got
beyond prototype stage, the idea here was to represent a trials vehicle, so no
divisional markings were required (national insignia only). I raided the
brilliant decal sheet from the Brumbar for balkenkreutzers, which went on
without a hitch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij98E5UXHVaNnoMtlbIIRv7nPAQ6K_jFv-C_AQIytl-A3aWrer4owusV3Ru02XYE4xGmCJ3n3ZPdETiXAmtfndyz6aH7msLxG_CC49X_ThfWyqdfdSURW6zbhCjkeyOAx92M0i_3d6yudt/s1600/DSCF2803a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1409" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij98E5UXHVaNnoMtlbIIRv7nPAQ6K_jFv-C_AQIytl-A3aWrer4owusV3Ru02XYE4xGmCJ3n3ZPdETiXAmtfndyz6aH7msLxG_CC49X_ThfWyqdfdSURW6zbhCjkeyOAx92M0i_3d6yudt/s400/DSCF2803a.jpg" width="351" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJanoEx1WvBeemBAmpj137i9khOmbaZN052oI0wTRTWQFTon-tLUHZrTVNhpRBQKfFSOygm7FlBM0f3twLjJA5A8ai12dHlRVJYLCI9QV1E4KyrhU6nNIJ06BfngkpdQBc_J0xLXaEivdd/s1600/DSCF2802a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="838" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJanoEx1WvBeemBAmpj137i9khOmbaZN052oI0wTRTWQFTon-tLUHZrTVNhpRBQKfFSOygm7FlBM0f3twLjJA5A8ai12dHlRVJYLCI9QV1E4KyrhU6nNIJ06BfngkpdQBc_J0xLXaEivdd/s400/DSCF2802a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The finished model looks good, with minimal pigment work,
and the Dragon indie tracks will provide Pz. IV links for other projects for
years to come – I have a StuG IV to do featuring lots of extra track lengths as
appliqué armour and I expect many will be assembled from this kit. My next
Dragon? Not sure, but possibly a Nashorn, another chance to do the track
switch-out. Yes, the new Tammy kit is fantastic, but the Dragon is already in
the stash.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-70880930212665559102019-01-23T12:23:00.000+10:302019-01-23T12:25:38.743+10:30Recently Completed: Airfix 1:72 P-51D Mustang (A01004A)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHnyf2VgfskGCv4WmMrALNoMBA7FAMVL7I5Wa2dIFcimqxFnHtU8RFf27y6ep9pqvXi9Z6Gs7dpllRKVKt5n2XxdmdLcgsPSYdR48ic2I9KODAznoHeFvMNY99ob9C3zoeKJ-2OiZVQYyX/s1600/1025403-16559-18-720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="388" data-original-width="720" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHnyf2VgfskGCv4WmMrALNoMBA7FAMVL7I5Wa2dIFcimqxFnHtU8RFf27y6ep9pqvXi9Z6Gs7dpllRKVKt5n2XxdmdLcgsPSYdR48ic2I9KODAznoHeFvMNY99ob9C3zoeKJ-2OiZVQYyX/s320/1025403-16559-18-720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the “8<sup>th</sup> Air Force” edition of Airfix’s
new-tool Mustang kit, featuring markings for one of the famous “Blue-Nosed
Bastards of Bodney.” Structurally it’s the same kit I built in 2014 and 2018.
No luck with the joystick this time, and the radio mast is scratch built as
always. I used SAC whitemetal landing gear as a matter of course.<br />
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I used Model Master Acryl Interior Green for the first time,
and sprayed a shade to represent the plywood cockpit floor as well, something
of a first for a detail seen so little (I generally do the canopy closed.) The
“Bodney blue” was straight Tamiya XF-8, glossed with Microscale clear, maybe a
touch too dark, but fairly close – closer than the Humbrol “French Blue” which
is recommended in the plans.</div>
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I used the same graphite weathering technique as last time
to vary the panel shades of the natural metal finish. It may not be perfect but
it’s not bad and it’s certainly quick – an hour’s gentle masking and brushing
with powdered 6B lead and the job was done. It also avoids the possibility of
firmer masking pulling up previous paint or of anything going wrong with a
second application of paint, if varying the metallic with a mixed shade.</div>
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The canopy was masked from scratch using Tamiya tape and
Gunze fluid, which worked brilliantly on the main hood but on the windscreen it
pulled the paint off the narrow struts. I rectified this by making strip decal
with clear film – spraying interior green, then blue, then clear, and cutting
fine strips with my Chopper II guillotine. </div>
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Speaking of the windscreen, the part does not fit as snugly
as it might – you can have it tight into the lower curve on one side or the
other but not both unless using a hot glue to make it grab before you release
the seating pressure – but that will craze the plastic. I used white glue as a
gap-filler on the left, which was not terribly successful.</div>
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It’s been observed that the drop-tanks in this kit are not
very good, certainly they lack the prominent median ridge of the real thing,
and I left them off this build, though I might transplant the better-detailed
tanks from an Academy bird, if practical.</div>
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I love how the finished model feels “busy” to the eye.
Consider the left fuselage side – the basic metallic, selectively darkened with
graphite, then overlaid with clear, accented panel lines and the decals, all
pulled together with final clear – there’s a lot going on to catch the eye in a
very small space. The same goes for the wings – technically they should be a
uniform aluminium shade and the panel lines should be filled and smoothed, as
they were on the original, but it would make for an awfully plain display. This
is where artistic license gets in the way of historical accuracy.</div>
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This kit was assembled before the end of 2018 but I knew there
was no way I could get it finished in time to include it in last year’s tally.
Painting was a fairly straight forward process but included one or two
backtracks, all of which cost time. I have three more of this edition, plus a
couple of other editions of the kit, and look forward to adding to my Mustang
line-up in future.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-37336613157343377142018-12-31T17:39:00.000+10:302018-12-31T17:39:11.714+10:30Recently Completed: Airfix 1:72 Hawker Typhoon Mk. Ib (A02041).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zaC-Kcg6r-bfH6t5QZZ4MYcnQV_Hc5u_lw-J7ctWPHDFNXbH3ebDlLAbTACrVxEon-DXzr8RoH93wTaqK8JiWb3CPrf2slK_CkvIt960DFWzifc-wDv-GIvbxa7aiBFAy_UFi_Rrogq9/s1600/Airfix+1_72+Typhoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="351" data-original-width="640" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zaC-Kcg6r-bfH6t5QZZ4MYcnQV_Hc5u_lw-J7ctWPHDFNXbH3ebDlLAbTACrVxEon-DXzr8RoH93wTaqK8JiWb3CPrf2slK_CkvIt960DFWzifc-wDv-GIvbxa7aiBFAy_UFi_Rrogq9/s320/Airfix+1_72+Typhoon.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the first Typhoon I have ever done (though there was
a Matchbox 1:72 Tempest II back in the 80s). Tooled in 2013, this kit looks
very nice in the box, and as a Series 2 kit comes on four sprues and with two
decal options. I had intended to do the more colourful scheme with invasion
stripes, but didn’t trust such large decals not to pose grab and alignment
problems that might result in tearing; plus I wanted to get this one off the
bench before New Year and wasn’t in the market for surprises, or for backing up
and painting the stripes.</div>
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Another good-looking addition to Airfix’s stable of British
aviation in miniature, the model’s pleasing lines conceal a few challenges. I
got the feeling Airfix somewhat over-thought the engineering in this kit,
especially in the way the cockpit interior locates, and the cockpit
floor/wheelwells part, which demands a certain order of assembly and
unavoidably introduces the potential for misalignment. Fit problems I found
inevitable, steps at the wingroot being the most serious, though gaps manifested
on the horizontal tails too: whiteglue to the rescue. I expected the keyed
landing gear to be out of alignment also, but surprisingly it was not – the
wheels are flattened and bulged, and keyed to the struts, and once the model is
“up on its feet” the flat spots are firmly to the ground. Assembly took a
little time, and there was plenty of prepainting to do, between the prominent
radiator/carburettor intake assembly, the cockpit and surrounds, landing gear,
bay doors and propeller assembly.</div>
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Overall, though, the model looks the part, and once it was
together the finishing techniques flowed along well enough. I used Tamiya’s
accurised RAF late-WWII shades (XF-81, -82 and -83) topped with Microscale
clears and Florey panel wash, finished with oil wash weathering and Mig
pigments. I used the Eduard mask set for the canopy and wheels, and the AML
masks for the Type A camo scheme. The set includes an extra sheet of straight
strips doubtless intended for painting the invasion stripes.</div>
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The best part of the kit was the decals, they were superb
and pulled into surface detail even before MicroSet was applied. Very thin,
they grabbed a bit quickly, but are of solid tone, fully in-register, and seem
especially accurate. They behaved much better than the sheet in the Spitfire I
finished last, indeed I completed all decals, with the exception of the leading
edge yellow stripes, in a single day of work.</div>
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Criticisms? The small antenna on the underside of the
fuselage did not fit its locator hole – I fiddled and fumbled with it for a
good twenty minutes, most of which was involved in getting hold of the tiny component,
over and over and over, while applying a file to the base until it actually
dropped into the receiver. The tailwheel is moulded as one part and must be
seated before the fuselage is closed, which ups the odds of damage during
handling and makes painting the unit a matter of a small brush and prayer. When
the propeller is finally installed, the mounting calls for a cylindrical unit
to be inserted between four moulded guides which “tension” it into place – why
so complicated? The fuselage aperture had to be filed to accommodate the outer
ring of the cylinder, and when it slid home it became apparent the outer
diameter of the fuselage mouldings is larger than the outside diameter of the
spinner backplate, leaving a strip of unpainted plastic exposed – yet with the
prop now quite firmly in place there seems no way to tease it free again to
paint the strip. Chancing getting camo green on the satin black spinner is not
a risk I’m willing to take at the very finish, so it stands as-is, and angle of
view will hopefully conceal the flaw for the moist part.</div>
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I have another of these, in the “Dogfight Doubles” edition
with Pips Priller’s FW 190 (an unusual combination, as the Tiffie found its
forté as a ground attack plane and probably never tangled with a 190, at least
not on purpose) but it may be a few years before I welcome going 15 rounds with
this kit again. There are some lessons learned here, of course, such as leaving
the main gear bay doors off until after the struts are in place, which would
make it easier to keep the doors aligned and not “toed-in” a bit.</div>
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Enjoyable? It’s always nice to see a project come together,
but I would have to say I was happy to see this one leave the bench in the end.
Maybe the shake’n’bake kits have somewhat spoiled me, but I had hoped for
better alignment. Recommended nevertheless, to those with a little experience
under their belts.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWY33BhhWWtAAmPn_IPEtN48jM86R3C8HZJBFwrM9Uc1nCQ0aNU3qF4v7sZPsIayWAW9vVRsDEpLduRtiQnvk5jSS43ziaweexDhjBjd8hwEyY57zuRvKZibR1D-SxQDXhJMcpcz0qlg1y/s1600/DSCF2724a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="772" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWY33BhhWWtAAmPn_IPEtN48jM86R3C8HZJBFwrM9Uc1nCQ0aNU3qF4v7sZPsIayWAW9vVRsDEpLduRtiQnvk5jSS43ziaweexDhjBjd8hwEyY57zuRvKZibR1D-SxQDXhJMcpcz0qlg1y/s320/DSCF2724a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-8272352882766048912018-11-17T16:15:00.000+10:302018-11-17T16:17:58.205+10:30Building Bigger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sometimes, with the pressure of one's daily obligations, a piece of work can be produced and clean forgotten. Below is a model build-up feature I wrote years ago, and even then it was a retrospective on a project which had not been documented at time of actual completion. I was browsing for some information in old articles and came across the text, so figured it was high time this one saw the light of day!<br />
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As I’ve ruefully mentioned before on this blog, some
modellers build bigger as they get older simply because they can’t see the
small ones anymore. That’s very true for me, yet I haven’t built large scale
planes since I was a kid – in fact I’ve only done one 1:32 aircraft in modern
times. My previous was 34 (now 36!) years ago!</div>
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In 2014 I tackled Hasegawa’s big scale Fw 190 A-8 and had a
great deal of fun with it. There were one or two hassles – the fit of the
engine cowling to the fuselage left a lot to be desired and was a tough contour
to fill and sand but that was about the only structural difficulty. The decal
sheet was a let-down – I had selected Hans Dortenmann’s Red 1 and as with so
many Luftwaffe aircraft the markings and the camouflage scheme particulars go
hand in hand. It was bad news when it turned out the sheet was unserviceable,
as the paintwork was fully finished. Patching the markings together from AM
sheets would have been a $60 job (three sheets required). Fortunately a friend
in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place> had the same kit and was doing it in
different markings and sent me his sheet, which worked perfectly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-vxtvLNwt0OyQNO6Xygx7D0yLmpuu3bzClrzlhJueskz_MSC4v2VxKq81_mETe6UEU0-r8u4w5ei3IfG6KbH80-y0czo0goMEffX4KzdxabCjnifdlkw86394No8Kyd1Q-lJrgmvdDq7/s1600/DSCF3495a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="506" data-original-width="764" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-vxtvLNwt0OyQNO6Xygx7D0yLmpuu3bzClrzlhJueskz_MSC4v2VxKq81_mETe6UEU0-r8u4w5ei3IfG6KbH80-y0czo0goMEffX4KzdxabCjnifdlkw86394No8Kyd1Q-lJrgmvdDq7/s320/DSCF3495a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It’s a big, beautiful bird, and at this scale the problems
of airbrush mottling are minimised – overspray can still be an issue but the
battle for fineness seems less acute. The cockpit was easy to detail, and the
1:32 etched harness was incredibly realistic. The outer pair of canon barrels
is missing – by the time I was done I was more than slightly browned off with
Hasegawa’s engineering choice to simply scab them onto the exterior as optional
bits, as my confidence to get them lined up in both axes while glue dried was
in negative numbers, so she’s a slightly odd-looking A-8 here. Better that than
make a mess after so much work had been invested…</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiPKUN_FC7I_YXL7MnK9x-fHSxTJw6ci64Qa_0EYyGx8KpX6IsuDd3wnOIjgrg5iRvlbOqKbWQAZAg_JyfB-zdxUTEjxU2zKhl3pcK7i1khj6tK2Pe7AbrR5GO2dHVcesvXTeUZy8iLbO/s1600/DSCF6496a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="561" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiPKUN_FC7I_YXL7MnK9x-fHSxTJw6ci64Qa_0EYyGx8KpX6IsuDd3wnOIjgrg5iRvlbOqKbWQAZAg_JyfB-zdxUTEjxU2zKhl3pcK7i1khj6tK2Pe7AbrR5GO2dHVcesvXTeUZy8iLbO/s320/DSCF6496a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I didn’t weather this one heavily – weathering is a skill
mated t0 scale and one must learn to use a heavier hand as scale increases.
I’m not comfortable with really laying on filth so this bird is in very
well-maintained condition – which they must have been at least some of the
time.</div>
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So why so few models in this scale? Simple, somewhere to put
them. You can store four, even six, 1:72<sup>nd</sup> scale models in the same
area as the “footprint” of a 1:32<sup>nd</sup> scale project, and you very
quickly fill display cases with the big guys. I have plenty of models in this
scale and would like plenty more, but until the day comes I have some sort of
storage designed to receive them – shelves of the appropriate depth and at a
spacing which does not waste cubic volume with empty air – I fear I’ll have to
leave them where they are, buried deep in the stash.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrjJo-iXphypqvH4KJwvn5MfLmMftfLdmjRdV1D-BxUjmE5l7RTgUBzoDh7PvLhmzeCEbpE4kOiITKjgGkQwDFQqwpCjll4efPwU7Kx_5bMCNFqthYsUnBZILEADoCV2K_KfezIqrhZ8-g/s1600/DSCF3487a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="762" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrjJo-iXphypqvH4KJwvn5MfLmMftfLdmjRdV1D-BxUjmE5l7RTgUBzoDh7PvLhmzeCEbpE4kOiITKjgGkQwDFQqwpCjll4efPwU7Kx_5bMCNFqthYsUnBZILEADoCV2K_KfezIqrhZ8-g/s320/DSCF3487a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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There’s also a lot of work in a big model, even if it’s
structurally no more complicated. It certainly uses a lot more paint, you’re
aware of your running supplies being used more quickly. But that’s par for the
course, I can only imagine the investment in time and materials the ship guys
go to when they’re building the new Trumpeter 1:200<sup>th</sup> scale
battleships. Now there’s a project to conjure with – it gives a whole new
meaning to the term “big scale.” It is to ships what 1:16<sup>th</sup> scale is
to armour or 1:24<sup>th</sup> scale to planes.</div>
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Hmmm, that reminds me, I have an Airfix 1:24<sup>th</sup>
scale Harrier hiding away in the stash. After more than forty years since the
basic tooling came out it might be high time it got the full treatment… If only
I had somewhere to put it!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL_vd9_wC9kGA7ME4GwfbjBucBCNqJSS1wvKekAP7P1fDqfSnMfor2okAaYpKgqr-fcjHUJyoDNwVeuNnWmH-VB9oyGbcuMbM2EO25F_m2AqXfViMAa7AlwwgxgVj2TGVaTLd4h0HYUHEI/s1600/DSCF3494a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="778" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL_vd9_wC9kGA7ME4GwfbjBucBCNqJSS1wvKekAP7P1fDqfSnMfor2okAaYpKgqr-fcjHUJyoDNwVeuNnWmH-VB9oyGbcuMbM2EO25F_m2AqXfViMAa7AlwwgxgVj2TGVaTLd4h0HYUHEI/s320/DSCF3494a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-38420391092392252492018-11-03T14:48:00.000+10:302018-11-03T14:48:03.809+10:30Recently Completed: Airfix 1:72 Spitfire Mk. Ia (#A01071A)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaiWrIJdD83wKh1lNpIDHgGq3BysOlqSqTB9jnsgMrhZFDuGzMbT74M7dF6n1dT75NM0533oQ2-2mlwDlzBa6h1CQY7Lhc14lFhQLtPW9KFkSKuOS7dXOLzKLSZCvU5hdPOYriJoYnnhyQ/s1600/DSCF2455a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="786" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaiWrIJdD83wKh1lNpIDHgGq3BysOlqSqTB9jnsgMrhZFDuGzMbT74M7dF6n1dT75NM0533oQ2-2mlwDlzBa6h1CQY7Lhc14lFhQLtPW9KFkSKuOS7dXOLzKLSZCvU5hdPOYriJoYnnhyQ/s320/DSCF2455a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Airfix and the Spitfire have been partners since the firm’s
beginning, around 1954. Though the Spitfire was not the very first kit they
ever produced (a farm tractor has that honour), a <st1:place w:st="on">Battle</st1:place> of Britain-eraMk.1 was a very early
release, followed by the classic Mk. IX in the late 60s, a Mk. V in the 80s,
and so forth. In 1:48<sup>th</sup> scale
Airfix has filled in many of the gaps of the available marks, their
super-accurate Mk. XIV due out soon filling a major hole – though many vocal
hobbyists bemoan any new Spitfire from Airfix as a missed opportunity to kit
something actually new.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">The subject here is the kit that’s had a lot of folk
talking in the last year. A UK newspaper did a promotion with Airfix, providing
coupons for free kits, and some enthusiasts managed to wrangle as many as five
or six, though to be fair others missed out. Accuracy is likely to be high,
given the meticulous approach of the firm these days, and the availability of
the originals for study. Compromises for the scale appear minimal, though panel
lines are a little heavy. The kit is a great pleasure to build. There were no
real issues except for the fit of the canopy (below), which is very tight and
needed a lot of careful filing and adjusting to sit down properly into the
aperture. When it reached final shape it literally snapped into place. The
build was otherwise uneventful. The landing gear legs are molded integrally
with the gear bay doors, which in view of the warped legs of their Mustang kit,
was a good idea, as these are dead straight and drop home into their receivers
with a comfortable solidarity.</span><br />
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Cockpit detail is entirely adequate, the canopy cannot be
posed open and so little is visible it makes little difference – in this
writer’s opinion – if one superdetails or not.</div>
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The cockpit was painted with MM Cryl British Interior Green,
the the model was airbrushed overall with Tamiya Acrylics. The underside shade
is a mix of Tamiya XF-21 Sky and XF-2 White at 1:1 (and it still feels a bit
too green to my eye), the Earth Dark Brown is also mixed, XF-52 Flat Earth and
XF-64 German Rotbraun at 1:1 (as their straight Flat Earth seems too drab),
while the green is straight XF-81, one of the group of three especially
accurised RAF colours released some years back. Microscale clearcoats followed,
with the final finish being flat, though MS Flat is actually quite satin in
lustre. I was uncertain about the general shades until the model was finished,
but once it had the brilliancy of the decals in contrast to the paintwork, I
was very happy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtroxJLe9jguyANlT_DApWpFTG2v5-zlM_XBtDvCXzFvPZe8nuAKjLfJWNGNPEO2-fLmNiZksTevf9DUD_s_pYnzzBTQQji-yIulSnlcOCXpsCs_mISUQ3oso3mYoh6ctQYpLbwfHl4fSW/s1600/DSCF2440a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="475" data-original-width="753" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtroxJLe9jguyANlT_DApWpFTG2v5-zlM_XBtDvCXzFvPZe8nuAKjLfJWNGNPEO2-fLmNiZksTevf9DUD_s_pYnzzBTQQji-yIulSnlcOCXpsCs_mISUQ3oso3mYoh6ctQYpLbwfHl4fSW/s320/DSCF2440a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The decals were pretty good but I found them rather
inflexible and unwilling to conform to sharp curves – it took up to ten
applications of Microscale setting solution to get the flank roundels to lie
down close to the top curve of the fuselage, and at least as many to get the
wing roundels to draw into the gun hatch detail, though still not by 100%. Note
the red gun patches are absent, there was no way they would curl around the
leading edge. If I find some decal material more willing to conform, I’ll add
them at some point – I did not fancy backing up and painting them with the
model essentially done.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBavfx_6tOYIbPYa-XzA6yZiEmpWTt1ztDMeUoN_MehMqHm_SBlXhy3A64WEObVjKbYZ5dC_kjvnUKjrtfPVcn-jaRJ5n6MzZRPkSwlW9nXSRQ2Gl9ZNa24toI90zv0aCh6HEurxPx8yV/s1600/DSCF2443a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="825" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBavfx_6tOYIbPYa-XzA6yZiEmpWTt1ztDMeUoN_MehMqHm_SBlXhy3A64WEObVjKbYZ5dC_kjvnUKjrtfPVcn-jaRJ5n6MzZRPkSwlW9nXSRQ2Gl9ZNa24toI90zv0aCh6HEurxPx8yV/s320/DSCF2443a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The canopy was masked with the Eduard set, which behaved
perfectly, plus Gunze masking fluid, and the camouflage was masked using the
AML set for the type B+ scheme. Florey wash and MiG pigments provided the
finishing suite. The antenna wire was rigged with EZ-Line, always the last job
I do because it is typically frustrating in its delicacy, and so hard to line
up accurately at this scale.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXUhjYDsp-b-Y_YFHRR566Zegd6IM5eqSFT5gXszsNH5_kFKLSJqer68NDGZlCyBsXHkPl1xJfdmXxxN3sMUc8ZdZ3UYfwE7dZtd-cl6gMoF2FZHPTBuAkQC8h0m6mSxiomspp7k7eWafB/s1600/DSCF2445a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="433" data-original-width="807" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXUhjYDsp-b-Y_YFHRR566Zegd6IM5eqSFT5gXszsNH5_kFKLSJqer68NDGZlCyBsXHkPl1xJfdmXxxN3sMUc8ZdZ3UYfwE7dZtd-cl6gMoF2FZHPTBuAkQC8h0m6mSxiomspp7k7eWafB/s320/DSCF2445a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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There’s not really enough weathering for a battle-used
aircraft in the thick of it. The pigments don’t adhere well to a hard, bright
surface, they are far better seen against flat where they can get a grip on the
fine irregularity. The oil streaking on the underside is also very restrained –
Merlins leaked oil notoriously and Spitfires became filthy beyond words on the
underside during sustained action. However, I seem to have developed a great
sensitivity to mineral spirits, as just enough to wet the brush and do the job
in a few minutes left me with a cracking headache for the evening. I didn’t
think the job was big enough to be worth pulling out the twin-cartridge
respirator, but I was wrong! Okay, this plane was washed recently!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQDp7sY18KeHnaKZV1gtMsa-xkX5B2MVgT3JS-3WvhRn_0OyUMkYth77i0lNU7O-exm-w1fC9LjxfpL-7T0nOR_6RJKVCMaEeG7A-23a4WsA5OFRQYvRJpzW8-JVmAJvJHU8WEOtHh_uo/s1600/DSCF2446a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="305" data-original-width="855" height="114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQDp7sY18KeHnaKZV1gtMsa-xkX5B2MVgT3JS-3WvhRn_0OyUMkYth77i0lNU7O-exm-w1fC9LjxfpL-7T0nOR_6RJKVCMaEeG7A-23a4WsA5OFRQYvRJpzW8-JVmAJvJHU8WEOtHh_uo/s320/DSCF2446a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">This is my first 1940, Battle of Britain-era RAF project since I did Airfix’s 1:24</span><sup style="text-align: left;">th</sup><span style="text-align: left;"> scale </span><st1:place style="text-align: left;" w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Mk.</st1:city> <st1:state w:st="on">Ia</st1:state></st1:place><span style="text-align: left;"> around 1976! I’ll certainly be doing some more subjects in these colours – they have a new tool Hurricane, the Boulton-Paul Defiant, and a couple of Curtis Tomahawks in 1940 RAF livery, all of which should looks very nice indeed (and are served by the excellent AML camouflage mask sets, which save a great deal of time and effort).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMgOcazYgWTnXbchkC3TunomX2LszT5RpXVfjwHEU7IwnhkLaLoWLk_o8WiEzGBc6wrWXEy_lanhMARtZSg_Lzz_jSxAmCIgwx3jePEu6ympyGI2VDjVmafFUOiRCJduI3JGvHOA73146Y/s1600/DSCF2447a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="527" data-original-width="761" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMgOcazYgWTnXbchkC3TunomX2LszT5RpXVfjwHEU7IwnhkLaLoWLk_o8WiEzGBc6wrWXEy_lanhMARtZSg_Lzz_jSxAmCIgwx3jePEu6ympyGI2VDjVmafFUOiRCJduI3JGvHOA73146Y/s320/DSCF2447a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyTTVPZRCv8s2HnQxZRhuuz-olJqm3QIz4rjLVAnJS4rS4IqYLjcz1W0rdI48-6vVRzK-GHo4Ze4TW6Sk-6lWXypQ0eL3zkyUP5eHGr0kE5Moc2ASjcZv4X0vHEoSRmYfeJq3wn2hVkffm/s1600/DSCF2450a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="522" data-original-width="824" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyTTVPZRCv8s2HnQxZRhuuz-olJqm3QIz4rjLVAnJS4rS4IqYLjcz1W0rdI48-6vVRzK-GHo4Ze4TW6Sk-6lWXypQ0eL3zkyUP5eHGr0kE5Moc2ASjcZv4X0vHEoSRmYfeJq3wn2hVkffm/s320/DSCF2450a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5VO_zCMuFdNoNoxMkULXIO3pqLpCCv2ryyKxxi_cqgB0el0-WFRSSem8tME1RdRr7j_CltNXt8jJy7a1DOfWgSjmyUp7WmZM7RvOTZVORBYOYsT2aNSoxdwZjF9LMKExlPNb580A4Gca/s1600/DSCF2453a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="583" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5VO_zCMuFdNoNoxMkULXIO3pqLpCCv2ryyKxxi_cqgB0el0-WFRSSem8tME1RdRr7j_CltNXt8jJy7a1DOfWgSjmyUp7WmZM7RvOTZVORBYOYsT2aNSoxdwZjF9LMKExlPNb580A4Gca/s320/DSCF2453a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-52299297237337468422018-08-25T15:34:00.002+09:302018-08-25T15:38:38.697+09:30Mustang in Blue Diamonds<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Rc5CXt8dAEuohhxLMC2CT9c1r0IkENfqKSKm0XmAK4G2aXoM3JywlwQBiobHUm7aJhcgBVFZo0HWlHg-MlH0BXWKIikyzLZc7J1hHqKtXu3qsKfZZcB0i_NmIHEmp7oJ_mafbUPev6BK/s1600/DSCF1845a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="863" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Rc5CXt8dAEuohhxLMC2CT9c1r0IkENfqKSKm0XmAK4G2aXoM3JywlwQBiobHUm7aJhcgBVFZo0HWlHg-MlH0BXWKIikyzLZc7J1hHqKtXu3qsKfZZcB0i_NmIHEmp7oJ_mafbUPev6BK/s320/DSCF1845a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Earlier this year I completed Airfix’s 1:72 P-51D Mustang
(A01004). This is the same kit I built around 2014, same original issue, though
the kit has been boxed several times now with fresh marking options. This time
I learned from my errors and did not try to include photoetched harness, though
I succeeded in installing both joystick and radio mast unbroken. It remains to
be seen if I can do that trick twice.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I have long wanted to do the varied post-war schemes and an
old Superscale sheet (72-149) features the markings of the Philippine Air
Force, who used Mustangs between the late ’40 and late ‘50s. The most famous of
these was “Shark of Zambales,” the personal mount of the commanding general of
the arm, B. N. Ebuen, and which has been the subject of numerous restorations
over the years, including a standing display at the PAF museum at Villamor Airbase.
Superscale included markings for a very particular phase in the original’s
career, as the markings seem to differ in detail from one photograph to the
next. Prolific aviation artist Gaetan Marie (check out his page <a href="http://www.mustang.gaetanmarie.com/articles/philippines/philippines.htm">here</a>) has painted three different schemes worn by this aircraft, varying by the
size, shape and colour of the shark-mouth, the scroll over the tail marking, spinner
decoration, etc. and Superscale seem to have based their rendition on a single
B&W photograph in which I am not prepared to swear the shark-mouth was
actually applied. Angle and the nature of the filmstock make it dubious, but
what’s not dubious is the unlikelihood of me applying the decals perfectly, so
I left them on the sheet. I can always apply them in future if I feel
justified.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcxYEv4R-NhaNhWiSW6r7F3Dz5-EqIMBl9yGbKDgxeQS2Nk1HKVrKo2m-J_CMCypok6DRsc1qQEx9d757tb0KROwUg8uoJyJ_5oWDt0hxCz1kI6BcHFHna-229ITh9thtOgRKUvN1xNCTL/s1600/DSCF1841a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="882" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcxYEv4R-NhaNhWiSW6r7F3Dz5-EqIMBl9yGbKDgxeQS2Nk1HKVrKo2m-J_CMCypok6DRsc1qQEx9d757tb0KROwUg8uoJyJ_5oWDt0hxCz1kI6BcHFHna-229ITh9thtOgRKUvN1xNCTL/s320/DSCF1841a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The sheet must be over twenty years old and worked
beautifully, I find myself thinking I’ll still be using decals from my stash
decades hence, and they’ll still work as well as ever!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Another important factor, this is my first natural metal
scheme in many years, as I have had the greatest difficulty in achieving a
credible finish. I used Tamiya flat aluminium acrylic, overworked with 6B
pencil graphite to vary the tonal values, then topcoated with Micro Satin for
lustre. It feels quite good and I look forward to trying this technique again.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVKRgIQt_HsZ5jKaUMABrkKotOaxsDYlMaImuoSwDO6eL4LVnfppWqZH_qmUmqd25eHJMG0pgUmEWTs6RPM514YZU1Urq5P4rOypgGqX3i1ZMV4Cf8M7DTkySHIrvPc0Q9ZZTDLWeG9l6/s1600/DSCF1843a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="870" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVKRgIQt_HsZ5jKaUMABrkKotOaxsDYlMaImuoSwDO6eL4LVnfppWqZH_qmUmqd25eHJMG0pgUmEWTs6RPM514YZU1Urq5P4rOypgGqX3i1ZMV4Cf8M7DTkySHIrvPc0Q9ZZTDLWeG9l6/s320/DSCF1843a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The landing gear of the Airfix kit is its only real
disappointment – the plastic is soft and the main gear legs are irretrievably
warped right on the sprue. The first time I built the kit I overlooked the
problem and photographed it from angles that hid the gear, but this time I just
couldn’t. I picked up the white metal replacement set from Scale Aircraft
Conversions, beautiful castings in strong metal, absolutely straight, and they
even supply two sets in the box so the next Airfix Mustang will get them too.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWdx3PblVv8JbbdfMKhSo1AQ_2hFOde2N3XlOSIDQZ9nhFu5jv_XPDb2cNP88d6uIFBEsKYUpOCUL5p7cpan6LOLsBZHLGONXzxOYdn_1ykdTifBBBOKXjnd1GA7k48U2ai4YslwBwNnk6/s1600/DSCF1848a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="614" data-original-width="735" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWdx3PblVv8JbbdfMKhSo1AQ_2hFOde2N3XlOSIDQZ9nhFu5jv_XPDb2cNP88d6uIFBEsKYUpOCUL5p7cpan6LOLsBZHLGONXzxOYdn_1ykdTifBBBOKXjnd1GA7k48U2ai4YslwBwNnk6/s320/DSCF1848a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This bird came out very nicely and I look forward to adding
more to my line-up – I recently picked up decal sets for postwar ANG birds and
third world users, plus the Airfix edition with decals for Grenada, 1983, the
last user of Mustangs in a combat role. I should think I’ll develop a long line
of P-51Ds based on this kit and the ocean of decals I’ve collected over the
years.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKE97G8xygjugDuO1ubZsSEmdeq0fHXEdcxVuYAmF0TBZIDseOR59E95-lCHXY-3IMlLdefgOrT4tyv1AXL56_w6K_9jir0ag7KSEuV-fDu3gXqMp1yZXgvjfv-Pa06Tzop43nyWCoAe38/s1600/DSCF1850a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="488" data-original-width="924" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKE97G8xygjugDuO1ubZsSEmdeq0fHXEdcxVuYAmF0TBZIDseOR59E95-lCHXY-3IMlLdefgOrT4tyv1AXL56_w6K_9jir0ag7KSEuV-fDu3gXqMp1yZXgvjfv-Pa06Tzop43nyWCoAe38/s320/DSCF1850a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-89479975254305699802018-01-20T12:02:00.000+10:302018-01-20T12:04:46.357+10:30Keeping it Simple: Academy’s Hellcat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrQGx16GJDVje19TEbNy1GW4CLYklvVlvB1iknjbfJ8yOB1_U9BSmod1sSC8O6RuH8Aoe_yztu98xUQaAnePlabzsw0zFcjLSkNBTET3paaGAOx_EHqLU99L-kpNdjikJsHiCornroSL-/s1600/MH12481-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="389" data-original-width="900" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrQGx16GJDVje19TEbNy1GW4CLYklvVlvB1iknjbfJ8yOB1_U9BSmod1sSC8O6RuH8Aoe_yztu98xUQaAnePlabzsw0zFcjLSkNBTET3paaGAOx_EHqLU99L-kpNdjikJsHiCornroSL-/s320/MH12481-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When the weather has hit 112 F out there and you need AC and
fan in combination to get through the day, you don’t want heavy, complicated
projects, and knocking off some quick builds is the right medicine to break up
professional commitments.</div>
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I picked up Academy’s 1:72 F6F Hellcat (#2121) on eBay many
years ago and it has hung around on my shelves for the last two years or so with
some pre-painting done, therefore technically started. I would like to do a USN
midnight blue subject in each year, along with another from the grey-over-white
era, but my last blue was Academy’s F2H Banshee in 2015 – I was amazed to find
years had gone by since the last time I uncapped the blue! This Hellcat is a
surprisingly good little kit, very simple to put together (so long as you’re
careful with alignments, the wing to fuselage can bite you on the underside)
and has engraved detail so looks the part under a coat of paint.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1c7JdlHAZ6A1lY5YMeBKvCsRikw8Y22nHQ5BMpsQtKuw8sztJEtiVNJNuSxRmTE1r10NWhyphenhyphenlS4Q4G1-zljITTF16ILVzJzQrfoWDGT7Dcc9qLVNcV1q-53pS7kqFtSDthZ36pD-H6tXmJ/s1600/DSCF0781a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="872" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1c7JdlHAZ6A1lY5YMeBKvCsRikw8Y22nHQ5BMpsQtKuw8sztJEtiVNJNuSxRmTE1r10NWhyphenhyphenlS4Q4G1-zljITTF16ILVzJzQrfoWDGT7Dcc9qLVNcV1q-53pS7kqFtSDthZ36pD-H6tXmJ/s320/DSCF0781a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Construction was not difficult, fit is generally okay,
though the engineering is not quite up there with the big guys. Options include
the small side panel windows to do the -3 variant, and you have bombs and
rockets for the -5. Clear parts are well done, with a choice of windscreens for
the two variants plus clear plug-in domes for the position lights on the spine
an tail light under the rudder. The engine is a decent little rendition of an
R-2800 and looks okay with a black wash. The prop shaft seems a bit thick and
profits from a swipe with a file. Landing gear is reasonably strong for the
scale, and undetailed gun barrels are moulded into the wing halves.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidb1sc-HxagvwWzjRI6rrAmrQ3E3erWhZzqfmOWpznzoqKlnxdtgavYXB7fppwAwjxBm8xRA0RJ_sNjzzdtfdQl2LvSN5lFmbW567gfV5n___MceYyPPsUNm1p5BJQB26aKa82TsYRRpk0/s1600/DSCF0773a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="479" data-original-width="697" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidb1sc-HxagvwWzjRI6rrAmrQ3E3erWhZzqfmOWpznzoqKlnxdtgavYXB7fppwAwjxBm8xRA0RJ_sNjzzdtfdQl2LvSN5lFmbW567gfV5n___MceYyPPsUNm1p5BJQB26aKa82TsYRRpk0/s320/DSCF0773a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I’ve had disappointing results from commercial canopy masks,
they can pull up the paint as you remove them, and it’s frustrating indeed when
that happens as the product adds several dollars to the build cost. This time I
did it the old fashioned way, using thin-cut slivers of Tamiya tape and Gunze
masking fluid to outline and fill in the areas, and the thin braces are custom
decals – clear Superscale decal film oversprayed first with Interior Green,
then Midnight Blue, and finally Micro Satin. I made a piece 30 x 48 mm and
should be cutting strips from it for many years to come. I used my “Chopper”
mini guillotine to precision-cut a single strip, which provided the four short
pieces necessary (I didn’t get fancy with the 45-degree corners of the bracing
strips – tis is meant to be a simple project, after all).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXpre1R81x0PBIgaSyavktV4P3ZDFhyphenhyphenUUblvYB1j-g3if5bu6v9T8Xc1jpa0UVam7jDrUFuX-T1efNEzLYlChkyHYZgXeYSdQQeOEM6KkSH_FZsbnQh6kWsAdDp8z8oeR2hJhxAQC2iUy/s1600/DSCF0782a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="507" data-original-width="715" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXpre1R81x0PBIgaSyavktV4P3ZDFhyphenhyphenUUblvYB1j-g3if5bu6v9T8Xc1jpa0UVam7jDrUFuX-T1efNEzLYlChkyHYZgXeYSdQQeOEM6KkSH_FZsbnQh6kWsAdDp8z8oeR2hJhxAQC2iUy/s320/DSCF0782a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I went with a mixed version of USN Midnight Blue (An 607/FS
25042), as I had read and agreed with the observation that Tamiya’s shade
(XF-17) was too dark. I tried the mixing ratio of XF-17 : XF-8 : XF-2 at 5:3:2,
this producing a slightly brighter and lighter blue. The original was not a
full gloss, so Microscale Satin was the perfect finish, right out of the
airbrush. I used the Academy instrument decal and going by the way it went on
the kit sheet would probably have been usable, but I intended from the start to
go with Superscales for this build, 72-737 being my choice, simple markings for
a -5 from an unidentified unit toward the end of the war.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTUj3MOFJr5VfK-evTxvDT3YeHgGB146oXhtJqYwbISDovLtalkaTAoiN0quwI2BPX18yOBsPmU81Xl19ysxlJPTmNFtQm-Erdbtn-TJwnbMRUA1g1KUOGwBWJDVUdBBWmPb-U4Suze-G/s1600/DSCF0784a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="680" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTUj3MOFJr5VfK-evTxvDT3YeHgGB146oXhtJqYwbISDovLtalkaTAoiN0quwI2BPX18yOBsPmU81Xl19ysxlJPTmNFtQm-Erdbtn-TJwnbMRUA1g1KUOGwBWJDVUdBBWmPb-U4Suze-G/s320/DSCF0784a.jpg" width="291" /></a></div>
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The support straps running under the belly tank should be in
natural metal, and if I ever locate my silver strip decals I’ll add them.
Likewise with the bombs – lightened Olive Drab for scale effect, but the
ordnance decals I remembered turned out to be 1:48<sup>th</sup> scale, so if I
ever find smaller ones I may add them and perhaps a clear coat to dull down the
weapons. In the same spirit, when I get some superglue in a fresher state I’ll
look at adding a radio antenna, if I judge the mast strong enough to take the
mild but constant pull of EZline.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNI5Bl-vRKNsz1OlvHyWflQsoTJ4XvjIlsrfS4icxcGQ3tdO0Bc73oyKvm6buBgvuiBxzwuPZ8Od5p_kDCx-1xz1O4uZphRALkBQPlWXUJtvWuYaLRJmniXcLlu1hPEXhiZ1niiSlJC_IA/s1600/DSCF0785a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="342" data-original-width="858" height="127" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNI5Bl-vRKNsz1OlvHyWflQsoTJ4XvjIlsrfS4icxcGQ3tdO0Bc73oyKvm6buBgvuiBxzwuPZ8Od5p_kDCx-1xz1O4uZphRALkBQPlWXUJtvWuYaLRJmniXcLlu1hPEXhiZ1niiSlJC_IA/s320/DSCF0785a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It came out very nicely and is my first Hellcat ever – I
built a Wildcat as a kid, if memory serves, but never its successor.</div>
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I can’t wait to get a Corsair into this mixed blue – it
looks better, to my eye, than any I’ve had out of a jar or can so far. Mind,
it’s a good job I wasn’t trying for a high gloss, or I’d have been very
disappointed, as I have yet to learn the trick of keeping dust and micro-fine hairs
out of the painting space.</div>
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Next up looks like being a Spit, and maybe a Phantom is
impending…</div>
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Cheers, Mike</div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-56201935102842413452018-01-04T16:29:00.000+10:302018-01-04T16:29:13.095+10:30Kit Review: Academy 1:35 M981 FIST-V #1361<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPCASxZSsWTRGGn2p7HM4eD5zR3_PvdGShBadpSUexE7BBP5xRXW9hvr16IDrdHxApqnF5bjprGnAr4NNIj4kNN_swR8B6KRJySgDkkTbPq64HMeMmkCHeUQA_Dz4Lw5-vxHwkFzhzu6S/s1600/M981boxtop_a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="409" data-original-width="600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPCASxZSsWTRGGn2p7HM4eD5zR3_PvdGShBadpSUexE7BBP5xRXW9hvr16IDrdHxApqnF5bjprGnAr4NNIj4kNN_swR8B6KRJySgDkkTbPq64HMeMmkCHeUQA_Dz4Lw5-vxHwkFzhzu6S/s320/M981boxtop_a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Yes, I know, 22 years is a long time coming for a review,
but this is a rare kit. I checked on <i><a href="https://www.scalemates.com/kits/107510-academy-1361-m981-fist-v">Scalemates</a> </i>and<i> </i>though there are some videos and build-logs, there don’t seem to be reviews
online, and no history of production beyond the original 1996 release of this
variation of Academy's basic M113 moulds. So why now? I just finished it, my fourth
completion for 2017.</div>
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I bought this kit on eBay many years ago and put it together
way back—I built it in 2009 when I wanted to get in some gluing time, <i>not</i> painting, and just set it aside
awaiting paint – and it’s been in its box ever since. I figured it was high
time I lay this Shelf Queen to rest.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9IDihHuQI83YUzbP7cDJzyNPRieFlwjVBFWY8SR1-QPBgRavd_dzgdP9f-zNqO1RLQHggjzEVmfxsoM7uDBJm1Pw_Wmujj3oqFBlArmSq2bZgIBhY3onjN1Z9-UnL4tlPJhDBZQFlVwd/s1600/DSCF0689a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="907" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9IDihHuQI83YUzbP7cDJzyNPRieFlwjVBFWY8SR1-QPBgRavd_dzgdP9f-zNqO1RLQHggjzEVmfxsoM7uDBJm1Pw_Wmujj3oqFBlArmSq2bZgIBhY3onjN1Z9-UnL4tlPJhDBZQFlVwd/s320/DSCF0689a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It took a remarkable amount of effort to get the job done. I
laid on the base green of the NATO camo several months ago, then it went on the
back burner yet again as the affairs of life clamoured for attention and my
writing career occupied a great deal of my time. But the crunch point is what
it’s always been for me – that moment of truth when you need to airbrush at
reasonably fine definition to lay on the second and third colours. I’ve never
been able to airbrush as tightly as I’d like, it’s true, and there’s a bone in
my head doesn’t like to accept that, and avoids the reality. Hey ho.</div>
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I can say the early-ish Academy engineering was not too
great, though probably in some aspects mirrors early Tamiya, knowing their
habit of copying the great firm from Shizuoka shamelessly. When, at the very
end, I went to fit the separately painted smoke grenade dischargers, I found
the holes in their bases and the pins over which they plugged were both
different shapes and different sizes and that’s what prompted me to check
Scalemates – I suspected for a moment that Hobbycraft might be involved
somewhere in its pedigree. But no.</div>
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The plastic did not react very enthusiastically to cement,
and many of the small external parts which go to make up this variant were
without positive location devices – “prayer and superglue” as I always call it.
Outlines appear for the locations themselves, after that you’re on your own.
Given the nature of the plastic, the indie track links were beyond even
contemplation, and I picked up a vinyl replacement set from AFV Club that
worked well. They could have been tighter, but that’s my only criticism, and as
the vehicle is featured with side skirts, the lack of proper sag in the upper
run is invisible.</div>
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I used my standard armour techniques, with a few tweaks. I
used Micro Flat to tie the camo (Tamiya Acrylics NATO shades – I lightened the green for scale effect but then forgot to do the same for the others – my bad) together, though the
jury’s out on how bright an idea this way; I’ve done it a couple of times before
on NATO camo to suggest the low lustre of a well-maintained modern vehicle, but
the <i>feel</i> is not necessarily how I
like armour to be. I also tried 6B pencil graphite over flat black to create a
metallic effect on the tow cable, and while it may not be too great for bowden-cable
I think it’ll work well in future for the barrels of light canons.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFFEjb6FE8rJWCSqckrjqViP7d3AswiEyXmT-s19YZqtputh0SXlA9xzQDv_jrzaCozIKP3AKCfM1hf6Qn19MLq6jwWgTdDN-XCQpImbwVpCdBPNZ8yi8DgcV312i8YiS8x0tECskwqOIx/s1600/DSCF0692a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="705" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFFEjb6FE8rJWCSqckrjqViP7d3AswiEyXmT-s19YZqtputh0SXlA9xzQDv_jrzaCozIKP3AKCfM1hf6Qn19MLq6jwWgTdDN-XCQpImbwVpCdBPNZ8yi8DgcV312i8YiS8x0tECskwqOIx/s320/DSCF0692a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The kit was very fiddly at times, and I omitted the stowage
accessories in the interests of getting it done – likewise the early Academy
decals were not impressive at all (scalding hot water needed to get them off
their backing, then they had almost no stick to the model) and I left off the
large exercise markings in the name of sanity. Too many parts, too few
attachment devices – that sounds like 1990s asian kits to a T.</div>
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I also forgot that the M113 is an aluminium vehicle – it does
not display rust. The streaking in the images here is mostly done with MiG pigments,
so it’ll wash off, and when the day comes I can think about this project again I’ll
have a go to tidy it up and correct it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeO62DDAy_6kyeLmGOLCrKAkuA8cV3Jnagl696pxsIka4JVZyYqf3dS8vASO8qKuBUbXdMdPA1_z7AE2aafm2J978Wb5OrZJGlfAYqj_HhyphenhyphenppIOSRApVeP7wVAH7Oowm_LeWHR1PFlVsi8/s1600/DSCF0693a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="761" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeO62DDAy_6kyeLmGOLCrKAkuA8cV3Jnagl696pxsIka4JVZyYqf3dS8vASO8qKuBUbXdMdPA1_z7AE2aafm2J978Wb5OrZJGlfAYqj_HhyphenhyphenppIOSRApVeP7wVAH7Oowm_LeWHR1PFlVsi8/s320/DSCF0693a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It looks pretty fair on the shelf, a decent addition to my NATO/modern
armour collection, but I’d have to say I look forward to whacking together
Tamiya’s old M113 for comparison – a Vietnam era paint job with lashings of red
dust. In conclusion, if you want the M901/M981 fire team combo, Academy is your
source, and with care they build into nice looking models.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-25576911656895062042017-12-27T17:18:00.002+10:302017-12-27T17:23:08.935+10:30A Lifetime Since My Last Skyhawk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwamB_oCo0V2Fi_7LuwXpARURutVdXDu9D43LgnzB_0daL6gspvogXyabJeIFwIW2u4__mIQvuWukCXPYz-wYRLr3zUUHXynahcDKUM7JITRtnmYMDX3cNimBXpqp5AINlqypMGhitZ7J0/s1600/DSCF0674a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="726" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwamB_oCo0V2Fi_7LuwXpARURutVdXDu9D43LgnzB_0daL6gspvogXyabJeIFwIW2u4__mIQvuWukCXPYz-wYRLr3zUUHXynahcDKUM7JITRtnmYMDX3cNimBXpqp5AINlqypMGhitZ7J0/s320/DSCF0674a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Airfix 1:72 A-4B Skywawk (A03029) is the first Skyhawk
I’ve done since I was a kid – and that one, some 44 years ago, was also an
Airfix, the ancient-tool original! I’ve wanted to add those classic Douglas
lines to my display case for a long time, and the new Airfix seemed an
inexpensive place to start.</div>
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This is a nice kit to put together for the most part, but
can bite you here and there. Alignment is generally fine but there were gaps at
the wingroots and intakes. The former I dressed using white glue and capillary
action, which seemed to work quite well, while the latter received traditional
filler, though the repair is by no means invisible. The canopy fit is fair but
can wander around in terms of seating the windscreen, while the main hood is
too deep – it stands high at the rear hinges, as if designed to be displayed in
the open position. There are delicate and fiddly parts, the landing gear
especially, and I had to take a few days break to let my frustration settle
down before resuming the job. The secondary strut on the nose gear snapped on
the sprue and was simply omitted, in the interests of sanity.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3HSQT0hVJbAjseRYEg6pFRNC2IlK56uILvGc8AQYz1a36FP4Z6SRXV1SL1bMpfZbIdHmHEj1tmmIarJqE6zagYcNlh7GWk3l_nXOk_eFZHIG4tBMhpqXS3c7l8U2GBRI3oeQ2Kcbt3_M/s1600/DSCF0675a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="738" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3HSQT0hVJbAjseRYEg6pFRNC2IlK56uILvGc8AQYz1a36FP4Z6SRXV1SL1bMpfZbIdHmHEj1tmmIarJqE6zagYcNlh7GWk3l_nXOk_eFZHIG4tBMhpqXS3c7l8U2GBRI3oeQ2Kcbt3_M/s320/DSCF0675a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Paintwork is MM Acryl Gull Gray over Tammy flat white, with
Microscale Satin for the lustre. The decals are very good, but large ones grabbed
very fast, resulting in the loss of one of the large NAVY titles – I’ll replace
it next time I do one of these kits. Areas where multiple markings lie close
together are served by single decals, which is a good idea, except that with
the grab of these thin, lovely printings I dare not even try them – I cut away
the modex numbers from the front insignia and applied them separately. The same
would likely work for the rear flank decals – separate the elements and maybe
they’ll slip better.</div>
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There are a number of omissions in this build – mine, more
then the company’s. There is no decal for the “barbershop pole” effect on the
arrester hook, and after attempting to cannibalise strip decal, which shattered
at the first attempt, I dropped the hook into the receiver without glue so I
can come back to it at a later date if the means comes to hand. Likewise the
red edges of the gear bay doors are ignored – way too hard to freehand paint
and I’ll need strip decals of some sort (reliable ones…) before I try. The
intake warning markings are painted freehand around the curve (the sheet
provides straight decals for them, which must be some sort of hobby company
joke), and masking the correct narrower area for brush painting simply did not
work. So it was brushed up to the adjoining panel line, and that was as good as
it was going to get.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3pkHEpV9MwCd2gb99HH8chRUHicwWEjTBhcRgQ9SxSU2ZRVBH46-JxBkjpwIy7Qfu2oTxpE5gaqUu1Sc_V7OLoCrVD-OUT2yaxAAbCfUTWldPQHx-L9J_DXPKopWP2vYpt23Engs2pXd/s1600/DSCF0678a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="417" data-original-width="892" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3pkHEpV9MwCd2gb99HH8chRUHicwWEjTBhcRgQ9SxSU2ZRVBH46-JxBkjpwIy7Qfu2oTxpE5gaqUu1Sc_V7OLoCrVD-OUT2yaxAAbCfUTWldPQHx-L9J_DXPKopWP2vYpt23Engs2pXd/s320/DSCF0678a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I’m more or less amazed that the landing gear is actually
strong enough to hold the model up, but it seems to be. I had visions of its
collapsing once the tanks were on, but superglue seems to have pinned
everything up well enough. The Eduard masks for the canopy were their usual breeze to use, and their usual frustration when they pulled up both paint and decals as they came off. There are times I wonder why I bother to use them when the result is so shoddy -- then I imagine trying to hand paint canopy struts and I remember why.</div>
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Overall, a good model that looks the part on the shelf, but
I’m reminded yet again that 1:72<sup>nd</sup> scale is a real trial, and I
prefer 1:48<sup>th</sup> – so long as there’s somewhere to put the finished
article. While doing this one I had the urge to grab a late-tool F-16 in the
larger scale and just do it, but sense prevailed. Until that fabled new display
case puts in an appearance, I must restrain my urge to build bigger!</div>
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Cheers, Mike</div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-49828597597669729152017-12-15T10:46:00.000+10:302017-12-15T10:46:10.091+10:30Seasonal Bench-Time: Making an End-of-Year Effort <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF85rcQ4a-fGonbiXRNq99tWnXSXhKk68N4nEclgPw3uy82Be7S_ZhLC3AiyKwem3172qW9B5iOzs8udq1OM6bGH-j5N_0P6PSP1SrEd6O5cLoK1xsQzlMXy2iZg5zLhQqR82okBA0ugEQ/s1600/s-l500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="282" data-original-width="500" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF85rcQ4a-fGonbiXRNq99tWnXSXhKk68N4nEclgPw3uy82Be7S_ZhLC3AiyKwem3172qW9B5iOzs8udq1OM6bGH-j5N_0P6PSP1SrEd6O5cLoK1xsQzlMXy2iZg5zLhQqR82okBA0ugEQ/s320/s-l500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It’s almost a cliché that pressures of life cut into our
hobby time, and my 2017 experience has been probably the most extreme example
of this to date. I finished one small kit early in the year, then, despite
having a great many underway, found my energy, attention and time drained away
to other things. Losing a parent at mid-year was one of life’s milestones and
put a great dampener on things as trivial as creative entertainment… Then there
was work – teaching the second semester anthropology course for First Years was
quite a commitment, and my writing endeavours have certainly taken up time and
application – I should finish the year with better than sixty new short
stories, in quest of that fabled occupation, professional science fiction
writer.</div>
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So it’s hardly a surprise that the hobby bench took a back
seat this year, and only now, at the end of the year, have I been able to set
things aside and make an attempt to finish up a few projects before the
fireworks at New Year.</div>
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The one that wanted to be finished first was Tamiya’s
vintage Brummbar, 35077, from 1976. This kit has long been eclipsed by the
Dragon offerings, but, having built one of those a couple of years ago, I can
safely say this one is a much easier build, for all its proportional problems.
It depicts a first- to early-second series vehicle, and in reality these were
delivered with zimmerit, without exception. However, I did not fancy a zimmerit
job on this model, I wanted to explore painting techniques on an un-rippled
hull, try to push my chipping approach in oils (inspired by some build photos I
found on the web of an amazing chipping job performed on this very same kit.)</div>
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So, historical inaccuracy aside, I built the model straight
from the box (the easy part), and decided on detailing. I grafted in some
Dragon bits – the <i>schkurtzen</i> hangers,
for instance, finer and more exact than the Tamiya parts, but they simply would
not line up anything like accurately, therefore plans to add the Dragon etched
skirt plates were also shelved.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqgqiEZC28PVzCmXRl0mTaPfq-17lEy0a2Ji-J43Lh6kJTB4MP76wUfCBfRUkeJ1B0E56Tom39aga0-CjjCVLa0OcPP9JL-nuyxcF9bk3Vuw0SZu6YqVVyQC68ylCKPMW1XJ66vfu_7my/s1600/DSCF7495a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="798" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqgqiEZC28PVzCmXRl0mTaPfq-17lEy0a2Ji-J43Lh6kJTB4MP76wUfCBfRUkeJ1B0E56Tom39aga0-CjjCVLa0OcPP9JL-nuyxcF9bk3Vuw0SZu6YqVVyQC68ylCKPMW1XJ66vfu_7my/s320/DSCF7495a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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As usual with old Tamiya Pz. IV kits, I added some detail
inside the fenders in strip and rod styrene. These details were omitted from
the kit for reasons of tooling limitations, but are easy enough to add.</div>
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By the time the model was “finished” and photographed, I
realised I had also forgotten to paint the jack block and prep a Dragon
braided-wire tow cable – these details are to follow whenever I get around to
them!</div>
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The soul of this job was always going to be the painting. I
got the project as far as the base colour overall (Tamiya Acrylics XF-60,
lightened for scale effect with 25% XF-2, then given a slight lustre with 20%
X-22). And there she sat for many months as I struggled with the other things
life set before me, never quite feeling up to doing the <i>rotbraun</i> camo overspray, until recently.</div>
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I had been away from the hobby so long I made a number of
mistakes – the first camo overspray was okay, but the mist coat to pull the
finish together was the wrong shade, resulting in too light an effect and the <i>rotbraun</i> developing a pinkish tinge. I
then realised I had used NATO brown instead of the WWII shade anyway! Talk
about disconnected from the job… So, back up, mix a fresh round of base colour
by the numbers, respray and start again, correct camo (XF-64), followed by
XF-60 mist to tie it together.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfgWn-J0pQc8iJWN_JeFXMPnS_09uluHy-NU0PqbbQSzwI79xhbOoRnI1FDqqrd5gkEvUfNkmFAAa2RA5dJWrz_hsCoxwms2v9_dgUsVkooHv27HWEvKSGmO_ILfmhBDyqolBWVWz1dvI/s1600/DSCF0578a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="832" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfgWn-J0pQc8iJWN_JeFXMPnS_09uluHy-NU0PqbbQSzwI79xhbOoRnI1FDqqrd5gkEvUfNkmFAAa2RA5dJWrz_hsCoxwms2v9_dgUsVkooHv27HWEvKSGmO_ILfmhBDyqolBWVWz1dvI/s320/DSCF0578a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally I got to grips with the oils, gave the whole beast a
very thin wash of dark brown in enamel thinner (stinks to high heaven, gives me
blazing headaches unless I have a wind blowing through the place <i>and</i> use a respirator mask), then
switched to unthinned oils to profile all edges in a pale ochre, followed by
the rust work – dark brown, red-brown, and the slightest touch of orange. This
took about three sessions over some days, and the sheer extent of the work
always left some bit needing more. I need to try the old scotchbrite-pad method
for extensive areas of random chipping, it would really improve the result and
speed things up.</div>
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More oils, pin washes around details, then dry pigment work
on the muffler, and back to the air brush to spray the road grime coat on the
underside and running gear. Here I made a mistake again, taking it too
dark/heavy on the roadwheels so there was too much contrast against the drives
and idlers. I didn’t spot this mismatch until the running gear was mounted, and
with the Tamiya polycap attachment method they absolutely did not intend to
come off again, so respraying was out. Instead I darkened the drives and idlers
with a black oil wash to create a more even gradient between upper and lower
areas and this seemed to suffice as an eleventh-hour save.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVfsRgypX4U9m4fCIvVHDXSU-P543ABuf5yXRaQ34Qv6E2ZoUvk8k5slzJGaR5FOZqLhkrQcaPQswJrMF7luBYyLPUmX6Qlx7a377wldNvQnMKEw6wMb_0eRiRXF5fs6bzp_oyk4UQaOFB/s1600/DSCF0580a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="887" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVfsRgypX4U9m4fCIvVHDXSU-P543ABuf5yXRaQ34Qv6E2ZoUvk8k5slzJGaR5FOZqLhkrQcaPQswJrMF7luBYyLPUmX6Qlx7a377wldNvQnMKEw6wMb_0eRiRXF5fs6bzp_oyk4UQaOFB/s320/DSCF0580a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Decals are Archer crosses and Dragon numbers. I added a
little pigment over them to tone down the brightness of the white, which always
seems to work visually. The pioneer tools were sprayed on the sprue, given a
dark brown wash to tone back the metallic, then fitted and treated with
pigments for rust effects. The jack was sprayed hull colour and weathered
appropriately.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7qraCc2TFYmzKFG083zXXi-Yslru4PN0A1jiEOXjHVBApZa-lwX9MAC5WzMF2ubgUELCTSXKwQNDWywumSNxfOcsFw_g_b8zbE5G11Nh4Oh1mF-JVOd8ha9ujHf9LlEONgKoOBgIpmU4T/s1600/DSCF0581a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="821" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7qraCc2TFYmzKFG083zXXi-Yslru4PN0A1jiEOXjHVBApZa-lwX9MAC5WzMF2ubgUELCTSXKwQNDWywumSNxfOcsFw_g_b8zbE5G11Nh4Oh1mF-JVOd8ha9ujHf9LlEONgKoOBgIpmU4T/s320/DSCF0581a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Brummbar had a plate over the muffler, possibly to
protect the spare wheels from the heat and soot of the exhaust, but this plate
is omitted here – there is no way to fit
the muffler with the plate installed, and the plate will not fit if the muffler
goes on first, apparently. It strikes me as an unhappy consequence of driving
the original Panzer IV kit’s lower hull engineering beyond its original design
intent (either that or this bit was too fiddly for me, a very rare event in an
early Tamiya kit!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8orKLS__pT0IKFHzHXFr4tGCSWNTwf7kcpcyaTdcwf-RiSnlMnK3VAXG_8EQF5Z8__xES4aCEbmVEQmpreeH7Z8KKSXRyc6lZLDINZVMaLcofsYcG7mcNV_TeEq8s3v74ada_LJTfgQ7f/s1600/DSCF0584a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="907" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8orKLS__pT0IKFHzHXFr4tGCSWNTwf7kcpcyaTdcwf-RiSnlMnK3VAXG_8EQF5Z8__xES4aCEbmVEQmpreeH7Z8KKSXRyc6lZLDINZVMaLcofsYcG7mcNV_TeEq8s3v74ada_LJTfgQ7f/s320/DSCF0584a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Last washes and pigments completed the dirt and rust effect
all round, I added a radio antenna from wire, and she was essentially done. A
great many unused parts went into storage, on which I will draw for future
projects – the ample supply of individual track links will serve on a StuG IV
at some point, the crew helmets will find service, the skirt plates also
perhaps.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiERa9HYC6xVpI-dWJANlT86dIsKmXCyF_ueegwAiVtAHLrRsTUW_TnW-ZXc2u9yPtnP9FEeDs1Bc-hCfKpYjpIi5JI3EH4ukmwZXNJPma5XTY81gKAZPvNIRAwjXVjhyphenhyphenq5PJKux6rE2-lg/s1600/DSCF0587bw_a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="902" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiERa9HYC6xVpI-dWJANlT86dIsKmXCyF_ueegwAiVtAHLrRsTUW_TnW-ZXc2u9yPtnP9FEeDs1Bc-hCfKpYjpIi5JI3EH4ukmwZXNJPma5XTY81gKAZPvNIRAwjXVjhyphenhyphenq5PJKux6rE2-lg/s320/DSCF0587bw_a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Okay, it’s not super-accurate, but it’s also neither
super-difficult nor super-expensive, and it’s a fun model to build. The
painting aspect is king here – as an example check out the last photo – the
finished Brummbar against a Pz. IV J as far along as the scale-adjusted base
colour. This really brings home to what degree the finishing techniques bring a
model alive.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXTJxkP5KfaB2NpHnVUstY4j8dA048yic29_dAoywlK0r8IWzviBlHzLo5sjdWCh27Cns6Ww_Dr6sLCayumyS7M2N1r-yI3SKGtYSxc9qPM1cJplHmW5vj8genSbG8unjkFYhBjxF4i69/s1600/DSCF0590a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="868" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXTJxkP5KfaB2NpHnVUstY4j8dA048yic29_dAoywlK0r8IWzviBlHzLo5sjdWCh27Cns6Ww_Dr6sLCayumyS7M2N1r-yI3SKGtYSxc9qPM1cJplHmW5vj8genSbG8unjkFYhBjxF4i69/s320/DSCF0590a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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There’s a fortnight left in the year and I’m going to try to
finish another couple of projects before the calendar turns.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson </div>
Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-24665514286726991042017-03-29T14:41:00.000+10:302017-03-29T14:41:29.802+10:30Pressed for Time!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mF-sOtqCQc5HFjIwpCqQfUWTWpvBb9yyrp5JTfSdaBINXJQ9tmWJKN64j9uky-CKq74RS2sLTMNzA616o4ZVN0fH01xmgS3SdctRpu1wgV7GRi7-L7EpzILfUbw-D0CHJ5P2lmKMu0La/s1600/DSCF7392a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mF-sOtqCQc5HFjIwpCqQfUWTWpvBb9yyrp5JTfSdaBINXJQ9tmWJKN64j9uky-CKq74RS2sLTMNzA616o4ZVN0fH01xmgS3SdctRpu1wgV7GRi7-L7EpzILfUbw-D0CHJ5P2lmKMu0La/s320/DSCF7392a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We all have patches when we can’t often get to the bench,
and this year is shaping up to be a short-production record like 2016. At the
end of March I have my first completion (others underway, of course), and I can
only say I’ve been especially busy with other concerns since the beginning of
last year to excuse my distance from the hobby. That, and being in sore need of
a new display case, which is also painfully true.</div>
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What to do when you’re craving a build but have only a few
hours here and there to give it? Well, armour takes less prep painting than
aircraft, so I usually gravitate to a tank. I recently completed that <i>very</i> early Tamiya Pz.II F (35009) from
about two years ago (seen with the new build in the bottom photo), it had been awaiting decals as I didn’t fancy the kit
sheet and was interested in going with dry prints. I collected a number of
sheets but ended up using the much, much better waterslide sheet from a later
edition of the same Tamiya kit – and liked the result so much I decided to
build that new copy at once and do a project in grey.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKLDx37oOaSsawEQ_q4jmy7EVsASshmiJ6ooHq1D1kyI6Y_jx4tMEeLBbhk7soyLZwoK7lyKdkGS9FPa35AcquepmcXPBhfH6tWPb37LEMrOoNxg3Pi72Zgehj8KiDET6_xEXVF32M45Bj/s1600/DSCF7393a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKLDx37oOaSsawEQ_q4jmy7EVsASshmiJ6ooHq1D1kyI6Y_jx4tMEeLBbhk7soyLZwoK7lyKdkGS9FPa35AcquepmcXPBhfH6tWPb37LEMrOoNxg3Pi72Zgehj8KiDET6_xEXVF32M45Bj/s320/DSCF7393a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The kit builds in a trice – three sittings, a “one day
build” by all reasonable standards, but the finishing techniques were the full
monty, all my usual suite of tricks, and I took a couple of weeks over
completion. The grey was the same mix as that Pz. III F I did last year,
airbrushed in Tamiya acrylics (XF-24 Grey tinted with XF-8 Blue at a ratio of
5:1, plus 30% X-22 Clear Gloss to put a fresh-paint sheen on it. I did not
bother with a scale-colour effect as the next step was to spray a 5% solution
of XF-23 Grey-Blue to fade the top surface. Over this went an oil wash job,
pin-washes around raised detail, streaking of rust in simple dark brown, some
condensation streaking in white, some tiny spots of orange for fresh rust, then
an ultra-fine brush was used to install paint chips and dirt spots in
rust-brown and black. I used the new Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black for the tires
(though I can’t actually tell the difference from XF-69 NATO Black!) The
running gear was stencilled into the mixed <i>dunkelgrau</i>,
then the running gear and lower hull received a road grime coat of the same
mixed shade as the tracks – XF-64 Red-Brown plus black at 2:1. I built up the
grime gradually, and must remember to go with a thicker mix over grey in
future.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBSDmDEUHKLgGEoX9-cXTNHTP2Qkl2rGoWMig_bxJAMg3ekGGBpqBb15O9vDXeiN7UPP2n9c1saDDZ6daebMpPZhgaLI340IODaFqjzLjwOwg-dOdFVaR9AU19VLd3jG8vBgcT1MCcHQC4/s1600/DSCF7394a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBSDmDEUHKLgGEoX9-cXTNHTP2Qkl2rGoWMig_bxJAMg3ekGGBpqBb15O9vDXeiN7UPP2n9c1saDDZ6daebMpPZhgaLI340IODaFqjzLjwOwg-dOdFVaR9AU19VLd3jG8vBgcT1MCcHQC4/s320/DSCF7394a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I did not have much luck with the dry prints this time out,
the <i>balkenkreutzer</i> were very
difficult to align and prone to shattering – maybe the Archers are getting old?
Dry prints should have a very long lifespan, so I’m not sure what was wrong. To
be fair, the alignment issues were entirely down to myself, and I wasted four
decals in the process, and used a kit waterslide for one of them anyway.</div>
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Mig pigments finished the effects, with ‘standard rust’ and
‘black smoke’ applied sparingly in a few places. I did my usual trick with the
muffler, roughening the surface with a hard brusgh after softening the plastic
with liquid cement, followed by shaking on sanding dust over wet glue to create
the bubbling effect of severe rust, which looked good under paint and pigments.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1T1V4UJR-acWBJ2jTTu5az9vu4xlcU473kx3eKx4F9so_Tu0wpuOCy_mQhl-dLzwCsadGknwIkeoWUOEnHaS0xMU1xBoTjnJQpBB2xw5AhHynYX2U5SD1Yd7siCT1xeL0FOLqe6py83V/s1600/DSCF7396a_bw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1T1V4UJR-acWBJ2jTTu5az9vu4xlcU473kx3eKx4F9so_Tu0wpuOCy_mQhl-dLzwCsadGknwIkeoWUOEnHaS0xMU1xBoTjnJQpBB2xw5AhHynYX2U5SD1Yd7siCT1xeL0FOLqe6py83V/s320/DSCF7396a_bw.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The markings I chose for this one are those of 18<sup>th</sup>
Panzer Division, and the grey scheme marks this vehicle as operating before the
switch to <i>dunkelgelb</i> ordered in
February 1943. She is certainly hard-used and the weather has taken its toll
since the last respray. I might accessorise her with some helmets, maybe a
flag, one day. She looks pretty good on the shelf and marks my second panzer
grey project. I look forward to adding some halftracks to the collection in early war markings too.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbNj0bWSLBMYj8ovtIpnqWsdDJmfvSEgXm3M7HCIT5Q-Usz68zTeOT0lBy7lz4vTSgMLNaQYj8lvkEXDnz6bW3QxDrcqYOBB0Qp3wNEZrN9R3AxPX9W-O0tYvcRjP-HsIKG3YmFXifruM/s1600/DSCF7397a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbNj0bWSLBMYj8ovtIpnqWsdDJmfvSEgXm3M7HCIT5Q-Usz68zTeOT0lBy7lz4vTSgMLNaQYj8lvkEXDnz6bW3QxDrcqYOBB0Qp3wNEZrN9R3AxPX9W-O0tYvcRjP-HsIKG3YmFXifruM/s320/DSCF7397a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-33558624147427008632017-03-10T11:15:00.000+10:302017-03-10T11:15:42.293+10:30Recently Completed: Fujimi 1:72 A-7A Corsair II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivST1ZULdu_YLryYiyM16sP7ITLpkl-Sc9SExGpcOcb0_9y8hNqLnV8bHN3UPR2zpfKBMlIGMTQKj6jEEixfL3i_NSSGiB2CNQ6lg6zI2-C6XaV_iDK2GR-d8NrmhLQM3kYd8iqw3_mN3c/s1600/DSCF7134a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivST1ZULdu_YLryYiyM16sP7ITLpkl-Sc9SExGpcOcb0_9y8hNqLnV8bHN3UPR2zpfKBMlIGMTQKj6jEEixfL3i_NSSGiB2CNQ6lg6zI2-C6XaV_iDK2GR-d8NrmhLQM3kYd8iqw3_mN3c/s320/DSCF7134a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I can’t believe I haven’t touched this blog in six months!!!
I guess I’ve been preoccupied with my writing blog <a href="http://mike-adamson-writes.blogspot.com.au/">“The View from the Keyboard”</a> which I’ve been pursuing as an adjunct to trying to build a career as a
science fiction writer – give it a look, I can promise some great reads!</div>
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But what about “World in Miniature?” I certainly don’t want
to abandon it, and was today amazed to find I failed to post about my last completed
build. With writing and teaching last year I only completed four models,
the last of which was a classic Fujimi 1:72<sup>nd</sup> scale Corsair II. The
interesting thing about this project was the circuitous route it took from
origins to completion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5SSnGYKfKSDN7QNKuRjjka9mCfIVjuoWxL5FU0BR5pq15o-UXHI-HvijJ9qz3aQG2ZO3WOsTZk5vd4G231f2jnlY3b5KT152gW0G6eY5-8mcVHHdqV6RAi1Qnf0KpbjYmT0ESvubUghIU/s1600/DSCF7141a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5SSnGYKfKSDN7QNKuRjjka9mCfIVjuoWxL5FU0BR5pq15o-UXHI-HvijJ9qz3aQG2ZO3WOsTZk5vd4G231f2jnlY3b5KT152gW0G6eY5-8mcVHHdqV6RAi1Qnf0KpbjYmT0ESvubUghIU/s320/DSCF7141a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The kit was bought bagged on eBay, the Testor edition of the
A-7D, and I ripped into it with plans for my first four-tone South East Asia
camo job since I was a kid. I have the Model Master Acryls for all shades lined
up and was ready to do a hard masking job with broad Tamiya tape (while really
hoping AML will continue to expand their line of vinyl camouflage masks to take
in subjects like this.) Well, she was a bit of a challenge at the build stage,
that two-part intake trunk/lower fuselage called for some careful alignment and
elbow-grease to reduce the seams, but overall it went well. I read in an online
review that the wings of the Fujimi Corsairs fit with such precision you can
complete them separately and mount them after painting, and this eased masking
considerably so I gave it a whirl. It more or less worked but the alignment of
wings to fuselage, compounded relative to the ground by the inexplicably skewed
stance of the landing gear, ended up being far from correct – I just don’t look
at her from nose-on, if you know what I mean.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4tBeAQ3-BxvIB0vPjfSAiMxdn-451ck1ygeQfJ5w8GRwnsNkSQMruTNFGca7tCP2cpmHaty3SYwBIMLE4JGsd8NzmdRD5alNd6Iel08zmtX3GQy5v1CHlurJ-OnDnoFITXTI7Bsod9M0a/s1600/DSCF7138a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4tBeAQ3-BxvIB0vPjfSAiMxdn-451ck1ygeQfJ5w8GRwnsNkSQMruTNFGca7tCP2cpmHaty3SYwBIMLE4JGsd8NzmdRD5alNd6Iel08zmtX3GQy5v1CHlurJ-OnDnoFITXTI7Bsod9M0a/s320/DSCF7138a.jpg" width="271" /></a></div>
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But, and here’s the big <i>but</i>,
when Testor packed the kit they included the small sprue of Navy parts instead
of the specific USAF parts (differences in landing gear and, most visibly, the
air refuelling system.) Bang went plans for a –D in camo… The obvious solution
was to use the Navy parts, making her indistinguishable from a –A airframe and
finish her in Navy markings, which at last gave me the chance to dip into my
massive Superscale collection from long ago.</div>
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I picked 72-332 CHECK and selected one of the three
bicentennial schemes. The Gull Gray was Model Master, the white was Tamiya,
plus Microscale clearcoats and decal chemistry, and the markings went on very
nicely indeed – pretty good when you think this sheet might be twenty years old.
Florey panel wash was trapped between clearcoats too, and I built her with
mostly clear pylons, as this unit, VA-305, the “Lobos,” was stateside at Alameda
in 1977 as a training and reserve unit, so while Corsairs were rarely seen
without the full suite of underwing pylons, they were unlikely to be heavily
laden in their role at that time and place.</div>
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It was a fun kit, if a challenging one, and I know there are
shortcomings, the above-mentioned alignment issues high among them, plus a
small antenna on the spine of the Navy bird which I was not up to adding, and this aircraft should
have had a small antiglare panel extending into the white radome area but I was
not up to masking it. Hey ho, it takes a specialist to know.</div>
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I have many Fujimi Corsairs in the stash and look forward to
building a collection, I have a great many decal sheets waiting to be used and
my “sluf” shelf should be pretty spectacular in the end. I might build some
assembly jigs to solve the alignment problems, and tackle the wings
conventionally from now on.</div>
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Cheers, Mike Adamson</div>
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PS: I won’t leave it six months til next post – I have
several projects on the bench so there’s plenty to talk about!</div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-56691307680495240222016-09-27T11:18:00.000+09:302016-09-27T11:18:43.931+09:30Taming Etch: Take 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyficUILSF5LM7qkQAZqdzShyphenhyphen0XfYpKvOfO-RH7x13cYlIaiAMNPzQ36ZW6ZpalYf0gDhzh1ETNze3bMn2Bs_5ktIMYLE2JnydiqPp7YK2aKJqSII94hDPegjZV2Bxvcx6DvNN_ltgatSz/s1600/DSCF5903a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyficUILSF5LM7qkQAZqdzShyphenhyphen0XfYpKvOfO-RH7x13cYlIaiAMNPzQ36ZW6ZpalYf0gDhzh1ETNze3bMn2Bs_5ktIMYLE2JnydiqPp7YK2aKJqSII94hDPegjZV2Bxvcx6DvNN_ltgatSz/s320/DSCF5903a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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My first “Taming Etch” post was several years ago and
featured Trumpeter’s M1126 Stryker APC, with attention on the excellent etch
fret supplied with the kit to make up the jerry can racks on the tail end. That
was my first structural use of etched brass and I was quite intrigued.</div>
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It was inevitable I’d have another go, and when I tackled
their AS-90 SPG, back in 2014, I invested in two etch sets from Eduard to dress
it up. I didn’t use all of what was on offer but I did use maybe 80% of it, and
it took a loooong time to get those fiddly parts cleaned up, bent and attached.</div>
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The photos here were taken from an angle to optimise reflection,
to get the etched steel to show up against the plastic.</div>
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I guess getting into the swing of it is the trick – finding
a method that works for you and making it a production-line technique. There
are those fancy bending jigs out there, I’m thinking the “Etchmate,” but I
doubt I’ll use enough etch to warrant investing in a specialist tool (at a specialist
price.) My standby is the traditional one, two single-edge razor blades
(Stanely knife blades) used to manipulate and bend on the straight fold lines.</div>
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The pic below has nothing to do with etch and is included for curiosity's sake. In my post earlier this year about the Trumpeter MiG-3 kit, I mentioned I had only ever had to use C-clamps to force alignment on two models, and oddly enough both were Trumpeter <span style="font-size: 12pt;">–</span> well here's the other one!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKC6CkjlEceLygqet289dEH4A05itQ5DIpLDGwFDxscYLIEN3mRKKGDzsALhn8o-n7f28iWi24A90dP519Av_qdsA8aHwXbi0mENZtD2aIZx8SasCLSOBNkzRCzLjChSfyHVEUqZ-kUpEU/s1600/DSCF5906a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKC6CkjlEceLygqet289dEH4A05itQ5DIpLDGwFDxscYLIEN3mRKKGDzsALhn8o-n7f28iWi24A90dP519Av_qdsA8aHwXbi0mENZtD2aIZx8SasCLSOBNkzRCzLjChSfyHVEUqZ-kUpEU/s320/DSCF5906a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Well, lots and lots of items were done this way – the tops
of the six stowage bins were etched, along with their latches, plus tie-downs
and tool holders, the smoke grenade launchers, the stowage unit on the turret
roof and a variety of hull fixtures. It was quite impressive to see it going
together but – and this is an important but – the moment the paint went on, all
the painstaking etched work flushed into the general visual impression of the
project and it was as if it never existed. Unless the model is under a good
light and viewed with magnification, the work invested in the metal accessories
is as good as lost. There is the satisfaction of knowing the details are there
and much more accurate than the kit bits, true, but whether that satisfaction
is worth the cost of the sets and hours spent installing the parts – such as
were willing to yield to my skill level, there were those I was simply not
willing to attempt – is another matter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRmdXOpVEWblOpEUVhZ1Nh7q1LZGCRlo7g1FnUvJELfj7WCSkfTHfwzqg4w6NXd8h0gGJufEn7M_YsNQLTc4PT_4VKkpdJvsN6TJHgtTdQI0jY7XujjtIJSS_JGu4NbJReaOkeUoyd6AJ/s1600/DSCF3227a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRmdXOpVEWblOpEUVhZ1Nh7q1LZGCRlo7g1FnUvJELfj7WCSkfTHfwzqg4w6NXd8h0gGJufEn7M_YsNQLTc4PT_4VKkpdJvsN6TJHgtTdQI0jY7XujjtIJSS_JGu4NbJReaOkeUoyd6AJ/s320/DSCF3227a.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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It’s a different situation when the etch is, say, a grill
set. It’s a detail that is likely completely absent from the kit and the
easiest of all etched parts to apply. I would never build a Pz.III, Panther or
Tiger without etched grills, but whether I would spend the time shaving away
plastic and replacing it with folded metal is very much down to my gut feeling
at the time. I might get ambitious and give it another go, or I might be
impatient to get to the painting stage where I can soft-edge the camo and work
up road grime and rust, which is always fun.</div>
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By the end of this project there were aspects not addressed, for instance the cargo tie-down straps that go with the stowage cage on the roof, but by that point I simply didn't want to know anything else about etch at that point. Perhaps I'll return to this project at some point, add some stowage in the cage and put the tie-downs in place, maybe do something about the shine on the decals, add some road grime, who knows.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6An6hi6ezP4dsQQVPJRiv-VgOVlEs3k-HEHyhUjSfIKEBHVVbRxwUqRmU0bPR2HI5bzVkxRgxWw5TWV_EmW1GeORlT9jWp7xDGJTSb3XRV7EhMiCUOmzW_ArC4uCrkzJQTTT4Vc-no6ir/s1600/DSCF3229a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6An6hi6ezP4dsQQVPJRiv-VgOVlEs3k-HEHyhUjSfIKEBHVVbRxwUqRmU0bPR2HI5bzVkxRgxWw5TWV_EmW1GeORlT9jWp7xDGJTSb3XRV7EhMiCUOmzW_ArC4uCrkzJQTTT4Vc-no6ir/s320/DSCF3229a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If I was asked my overall impression of photoetched metal
parts I would say they are a valuable accessory technology to the industry
which is pretty much indispensable for some uses – railings, ladders and radars
for ship models, for instance. But perhaps more is made of it than is
warranted; that’s an individual call, of course, and if your thing is working
with watchmaker’s tools and superglue by the tiny drop, then you’ll be in hog
heaven. For myself, I weigh how well I can see the details in the first place
against how accurate they may be, and for the most part, when it comes to
things like tool clamps on tanks, I go with the plastic. Drybrushed with steel
over the basic paintwork, it’s evocative, and less trying to my dexterity and
sanity in the process!</div>
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<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-31323394925522559862016-08-29T15:10:00.000+09:302016-08-29T15:10:35.186+09:30Recently Completed: Tamiya Spitfire Vb<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZNTzdUPgDp73Rs2mUzp2423paqht_c3FOtTMpei00UGNJmrfEE3V2wzWXULFZNAdIR_bzLpBNippYPjdHuQT1jMYRQt6u5fWBtmJq9D9A24CNbj0lFoBt9F6OvR3AHP09iV0TREHnNjaH/s1600/DSCF6699a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZNTzdUPgDp73Rs2mUzp2423paqht_c3FOtTMpei00UGNJmrfEE3V2wzWXULFZNAdIR_bzLpBNippYPjdHuQT1jMYRQt6u5fWBtmJq9D9A24CNbj0lFoBt9F6OvR3AHP09iV0TREHnNjaH/s320/DSCF6699a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tamiya’s 1:48<sup>th</sup>
scale Spitfires are old news – highly buildable, friendly, accurate,
they vie with Hasegawa for industry standard, though (somewhat infuriatingly)
the Big Guy from Shizuoka City didn’t come back to do other marks, just the Mk.
I and Mk. V in b and c variants. This left the field open for Hasegawa (the
other Big Guy from Shizuoka), ICM from Ukraine and the reconstituted Airfix to
mop up the missing marks, a process not yet complete even now. (Off hand, I can
think of at least seven marks which achieved production status which have not
been kitted to date, though we <i>do</i>
have rarities like the short-production HF Mk. VI, and the Mk. XII, first of
the Griffon birds.)</div>
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I’ve had one of the Tammy Vbs on the shelf for many years, I
prepainted the interior RAF grey-green so long ago it was done with Humbrol
enamel, and I’m hard-put to remember exactly how long it is since I retired
solvent-based paints in the name of brain cell survival. I had a yen for
another Spit so pulled this one and whacked her together. The build was smooth
and uneventful as you would expect from a Tammy. I didn’t bother with harness,
I’m not sure if this means my flirtation with printed etch is at an end or if
it depends on my temperament when the time comes – I guess I’ll find out.</div>
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The new aspect of this build was the AML vinyl mask set for
the camo. I ordered them up last year as they looked pretty good and offered a
relief from the tedious business of cutting tape masks for curved, hard
demarcations. They are thin, backed with a low-tack adhesive, and free off from
their backing sheet easily. In only one place did they lift paint, and though
they took some pushing and pulling to try to line them up, they were generally
very good. Here and there, the errors in location from one part to another
compounded so that some particular part did not fit at all and was replaced
with a swathe of Gunze masking fluid, but that was perfectly okay. The pic
above shows the masks partially removed, the one below the result with the
paintwork complete.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFFWtQZZOs-DHYBWdWewzxcj5RU5GHFqzGKDDZAuMksn-WGN7xggyiWHjnkCf_9Sti3z-dOJomtLdcTBsouLLZqQb08n7DR9vjjUHWuamjmIotFUR5WZcPhSk9J4eF-ikNh0F_pyj_8nuk/s1600/DSCF6676a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFFWtQZZOs-DHYBWdWewzxcj5RU5GHFqzGKDDZAuMksn-WGN7xggyiWHjnkCf_9Sti3z-dOJomtLdcTBsouLLZqQb08n7DR9vjjUHWuamjmIotFUR5WZcPhSk9J4eF-ikNh0F_pyj_8nuk/s320/DSCF6676a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used the Tamiya Acrylics late-war RAF matches (XF-81, -82
and -83), sealed with Micro Satin and panel lines accented and sealed with
Florey washes. If there was a real challenge with this kit it was the decals,
and while many builders report poor experiences with Tamiya decals I would have
to say that was not the reason. Feeling somewhat mistrusting of the kit decal
sheet, I considered replacing them with Techmod stencils, Eagle Strike roundels
and Fantasy Printshop codes and serials. However…</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0S7MhPuQtYuriPKR0S8a0SfU3_zIcfKBJ386M8SiZ3ImXmDGzDinRbq-S_T6NHeeQ8Oe8h7IqlnxJLp6BcDZeqjvBpBhuQTMWuqWK96mAJg5m3CT7Gq5hhTID04zegaD1N_ddZvEyjjzX/s1600/DSCF6677a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0S7MhPuQtYuriPKR0S8a0SfU3_zIcfKBJ386M8SiZ3ImXmDGzDinRbq-S_T6NHeeQ8Oe8h7IqlnxJLp6BcDZeqjvBpBhuQTMWuqWK96mAJg5m3CT7Gq5hhTID04zegaD1N_ddZvEyjjzX/s320/DSCF6677a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It turned out the codes were the wrong size – I have the
sheet of 18” letters and numbers, and the aircraft I was modelling had heavier
24” lettering. This compelled me to at least try the kit sheet and it turned
out it worked perfectly, snugging into panel lines nicely. The kit decals
feature a fairly good suite of stencil data but far from complete and I was
tempted to busy-up the bird with the Techmod data, but… Photos of the original
aircraft show it to have featured comparatively little stencil data anyway,
plus the Techmod stencils are so fine I can barely <i>see</i> them. I concluded there was no need to go to the extent us
using them for this project. Same with the roundels – the kit items were
acceptably accurate in colour and laid down fine, though they took a lot of
solvent to conform to surface details. The hardest part of any Spit is the
underside roundels which lie over surface blisters and I have yet to have them
be anything but a compromise.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-g83OIClR2UbVpGzJrbishLMxJiRXUvoZlWBfU7pPzvYgF_shFY5ICQM-8pnknk4atXSX9Zc_5HXBG1bqCzUF1R7bOP3cZImVG7Q2Py_gpdwwSQcp230TjK4kqLNO7AU3mNTaEkvhjggF/s1600/DSCF6699a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-g83OIClR2UbVpGzJrbishLMxJiRXUvoZlWBfU7pPzvYgF_shFY5ICQM-8pnknk4atXSX9Zc_5HXBG1bqCzUF1R7bOP3cZImVG7Q2Py_gpdwwSQcp230TjK4kqLNO7AU3mNTaEkvhjggF/s320/DSCF6699a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kpWqLN1nvG1s2aWIEH7rhErpVpWAnWq8crIh-H-2dbvksyAbxELYkME6C_7LJDmvAmvlcEcW4lFqkjOru39wKy7mvjEfxwcMB5JeBRIrh6_pK_tpMpYDlINBIWpRHkHik_n8wYV-cjv4/s1600/DSCF6700a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kpWqLN1nvG1s2aWIEH7rhErpVpWAnWq8crIh-H-2dbvksyAbxELYkME6C_7LJDmvAmvlcEcW4lFqkjOru39wKy7mvjEfxwcMB5JeBRIrh6_pK_tpMpYDlINBIWpRHkHik_n8wYV-cjv4/s320/DSCF6700a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The yellow leading edges are also supplied as decals, much
less work than masking, but again the task of getting them to snug down is a
long one. I spent three days on the decals of this kit, before finally being
able to gently wash the surface to remove dried setting solutions and lay down
some Micro Flat for the final finish.</div>
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I’m happy with the finished model, though I’m the first to
admit I gaffed in a few places. I aligned the canopy incorrectly and didn’t
notice it until the first colour went on – blame my glasses. There are
stiffening ribs on the wings incorrect for the Vb and the instructions tell you
to cut them away, though with other projections nearby on the wing I was not
confident to remove them without making a mess of the job, so I accepted the
inaccuracy. I got the wing walk stripes in the wrong place by about their own
width, and the fuselage roundels should be aligned on each other – to get the
codes set up at visually acceptable spacing, that turned out to be too much to
ask. Other than that, I’m happy with this beast. She’s presented as early
service days rather than the heavy chipping and wear seen in photos, and though
the paintwork is preshaded I don’t go in for the “patchwork quilt” fading
effect so popular these days – not that I wouldn’t if I could, but my AB skills
are seriously not up to it!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4cJoyLhERZ_HPNbnaqhusbp3Nil6ffPWCWivkThsIJqhxkDRCsgOO6O7-sP3JJjjiXkD4ac7EAK_39L9_eq9pk3xprQQvZFaW1C4SRXw8UhiMqJAQuuDM9JUfmzb7X99Tp4XBL3GDZqwN/s1600/DSCF6703a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4cJoyLhERZ_HPNbnaqhusbp3Nil6ffPWCWivkThsIJqhxkDRCsgOO6O7-sP3JJjjiXkD4ac7EAK_39L9_eq9pk3xprQQvZFaW1C4SRXw8UhiMqJAQuuDM9JUfmzb7X99Tp4XBL3GDZqwN/s320/DSCF6703a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PoxFsFRhH3fmVe0OPALnw9UxyusfyHmTPwrioHtF7WWfwmbPxRVX1Z5pPG5KuoCJzx5DH-0v0V280bhEg7_hIIVoU7sVPrNYEI63us7WofO5rff-zCpw0Z1vUiLfxZszOi4LQALzu7_K/s1600/DSCF6704a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PoxFsFRhH3fmVe0OPALnw9UxyusfyHmTPwrioHtF7WWfwmbPxRVX1Z5pPG5KuoCJzx5DH-0v0V280bhEg7_hIIVoU7sVPrNYEI63us7WofO5rff-zCpw0Z1vUiLfxZszOi4LQALzu7_K/s320/DSCF6704a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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One other point, I swear the canopy was crystal clear and
flawless when it went on, but it was patchy and striated on the inside when the
masking came off. I can only assume it’s the fumes from the adhesive. The
problem is, the clear parts cement sold by Testors is essentially just white
glue and I swear spit would have more grab. The amount of force exerted in
masking and unmasking the canopy would surely overcome it. My option for the
future to avoid this problem is to mask and paint the canopy off the model, and
attach with the weak-as-water-glue afterward. I certainly must do something, as
this element is an ongoing disappointment.</div>
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So there she is, a Tamiya classic, a generally fun build and
a nice addition to the display case, canopy notwithstanding.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWrt9EnJ1soLbntpCQnqeeuZ_dgwJ0Aaxz3xhes3IIe3MgS248VL9WP-59UAzeBpryKOn8MBeDxOD7L4CIpEX3ZN5lRAZLu5-XWan2Ri8ty4RnMUJlClmzvDPvBufXtAvPkQK6MhUfCw_/s1600/DSCF6706a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWrt9EnJ1soLbntpCQnqeeuZ_dgwJ0Aaxz3xhes3IIe3MgS248VL9WP-59UAzeBpryKOn8MBeDxOD7L4CIpEX3ZN5lRAZLu5-XWan2Ri8ty4RnMUJlClmzvDPvBufXtAvPkQK6MhUfCw_/s320/DSCF6706a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2UxXW4lH4qMxUqlZBRXXCgk7vYWhCXObEfNTVxE4-YlPsmyqsBgl1YuzrpQKgQ1v7iL4FyIGkYAowBX3_8bao1s0JQukq1mapl4IAn-r1xhajZms431buo2-1ubZy2-S5Shnxw8PEXsw/s1600/DSCF6708a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2UxXW4lH4qMxUqlZBRXXCgk7vYWhCXObEfNTVxE4-YlPsmyqsBgl1YuzrpQKgQ1v7iL4FyIGkYAowBX3_8bao1s0JQukq1mapl4IAn-r1xhajZms431buo2-1ubZy2-S5Shnxw8PEXsw/s320/DSCF6708a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-26725457644331107102016-08-20T17:52:00.000+09:302016-08-20T17:52:27.139+09:30Building Bigger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8n_sWaERYG6OfE1M3O9xtCR8R6ekyAltNLDWXxPvdI4z5WhVDE86dYI5YyisEbG5sgwkT9QwRRRbcP8cGk4wkAGXFbkmjhzPKjEVneJ7V1iDvKcRurG3HJkzLDvKMN0ELyKSZt33XooM/s1600/DSCF6297a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8n_sWaERYG6OfE1M3O9xtCR8R6ekyAltNLDWXxPvdI4z5WhVDE86dYI5YyisEbG5sgwkT9QwRRRbcP8cGk4wkAGXFbkmjhzPKjEVneJ7V1iDvKcRurG3HJkzLDvKMN0ELyKSZt33XooM/s320/DSCF6297a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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As I’ve ruefully mentioned before on this blog, some
modellers build bigger as they get older simply because they can’t see the
small ones anymore. That’s very true for me, yet I haven’t built large scale
planes since I was a kid – in fact I’ve only done one 1:32 aircraft in modern
times. My previous was 34 years ago!</div>
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In 2014 I tackled Hasegawa’s big scale Fw 190 A-8 and had a
great deal of fun with it. There were one or two hassles – the fit of the
engine cowling to the fuselage left a lot to be desired and was a tough contour
to fill and sand but that was about the only structural difficulty. The decal
sheet was a let-down – I had selected Hans Dortenmann’s Red 1 and as with so
many Luftwaffe aircraft the markings and the camouflage scheme particulars go
hand in hand. It was bad news when it turned out the sheet was unserviceable,
as the paintwork was fully finished. Patching the markings together from AM
sheets would have been a $60 job (three sheets required). Fortunately a friend
in Europe had the same kit and was doing it in different markings and sent me
his sheet, which worked perfectly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9bQfKXqqTnybRt32ykgk6Zt_jEpYleqtItZXl3_9Tu0gkeEDzQoyTgEYUC41z0-P5F_yKgU_aEjgKuaQ4Drqt4F33oAmZWntkrwxqy9qeUU24CbHB6UsldXtG05TWxErh9LSwfq0QuZGJ/s1600/DSCF3484a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9bQfKXqqTnybRt32ykgk6Zt_jEpYleqtItZXl3_9Tu0gkeEDzQoyTgEYUC41z0-P5F_yKgU_aEjgKuaQ4Drqt4F33oAmZWntkrwxqy9qeUU24CbHB6UsldXtG05TWxErh9LSwfq0QuZGJ/s320/DSCF3484a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujiLLsixiEBGvi8diZCPVAtK6JivR64s_O2rJZHD1qZRnU7CBpsdGy79aPeL1bWfEbSKM0InEcuhS_u74htxwYReLLeNfuZMgVUsryV-MlyQsNWL8pGjnHOmTyHHu1bfptse61VmYsOgx/s1600/DSCF3487a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujiLLsixiEBGvi8diZCPVAtK6JivR64s_O2rJZHD1qZRnU7CBpsdGy79aPeL1bWfEbSKM0InEcuhS_u74htxwYReLLeNfuZMgVUsryV-MlyQsNWL8pGjnHOmTyHHu1bfptse61VmYsOgx/s320/DSCF3487a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It’s a big, beautiful bird, and at this scale the problems
of airbrush mottling are minimised – overspray can still be an issue but the
battle for fineness seems less acute. The cockpit was easy to detail, and the
1:32 etched harness was incredibly realistic. The outer pair of canon barrels
is missing – by the time I was done I was more than slightly browned off with
Hasegawa’s engineering choice to simply scab them onto the exterior as optional
bits, as my confidence to get them lined up in both axes while glue dried was
in negative numbers, so she’s a slightly odd-looking A-8 here. Better that than
make a mess after so much work had been invested…</div>
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I didn’t weather this one heavily – weathering is a skill
mated the scale and one must learn to use a heavier hand as scale increases.
I’m not comfortable with really laying on filth so this bird is in very
well-maintained condition – which they must have been at least some of the
time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2O-1hfe8lo7f2gnvC5T8QoAg0bhbvSOwmPm2LeNSoX5H3WzAh2oL9gpiGq-A59H-e-mh0PK5hrhLdi3FaQSnp8-SFskibOiIJBIKuErGWmC21kgHGcFK6AkOinPMUXbKKZxhNj-CRpdTb/s1600/DSCF3489a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2O-1hfe8lo7f2gnvC5T8QoAg0bhbvSOwmPm2LeNSoX5H3WzAh2oL9gpiGq-A59H-e-mh0PK5hrhLdi3FaQSnp8-SFskibOiIJBIKuErGWmC21kgHGcFK6AkOinPMUXbKKZxhNj-CRpdTb/s320/DSCF3489a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi36GAsbp_d_c1G7NiFnCIi0MoWs1-_XnyCWSy2GvGchWHWtVP0_qN9S2OuF9M7Q5IZKC48OF5yuxnF-2Qdsoht6Z0imFW1Afptwg_wtBB4T49JEk8JahyphenhyphenYPneyQ2L5H4D0uEvoVj_4W_Ov/s1600/DSCF3495a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi36GAsbp_d_c1G7NiFnCIi0MoWs1-_XnyCWSy2GvGchWHWtVP0_qN9S2OuF9M7Q5IZKC48OF5yuxnF-2Qdsoht6Z0imFW1Afptwg_wtBB4T49JEk8JahyphenhyphenYPneyQ2L5H4D0uEvoVj_4W_Ov/s320/DSCF3495a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So why so few models in this scale? Simple, somewhere to put
them. You can store four, even six, 1:72<sup>nd</sup> scale models in the same
area as the “footprint” of a 1:32<sup>nd</sup> scale project, and you very
quickly fill display cases with the big guys. I have plenty of models in this
scale and would like plenty more, but until the day comes I have some sort of
storage designed to receive them – shelves of the appropriate depth and at a
spacing which does not waste cubic volume with empty air – I fear I’ll have to
leave them where they are, buried deep in the stash.</div>
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There’s also a lot of work in a big model, even if it’s
structurally no more complicated. It certainly uses a lot more paint, you’re
aware of your running supplies being used more quickly. But that’s par for the
course, I can only imagine the investment in time and materials the ship guys
go to when they’re building the new Trumpeter 1:200<sup>th</sup> scale
battleships. Now there’s a project to conjure with – it gives a whole new
meaning to the term “big scale.” It is to ships what 1:16<sup>th</sup> scale is
to armour or 1:24<sup>th</sup> scale to planes.</div>
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Hmmm, that reminds me, I have an Airfix 1:24<sup>th</sup>
scale Harrier hiding away in the stash. After more than forty years since the
basic tooling came out it might be high time it got the full treatment… If only
I had somewhere to put it!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEP_E4s4xO4P0r_gUFH__pmANDgHs9y4Cdb0eCGg5kYYsZIFxUUYy4-Tc_KtxxkKK2iRTkquEBNCMJv304MPQFSBSq_B-0Uh5CKWYkX7JiPmawYNEIUt8EcpeF-yUDS9bYllbV2FLflQZ_/s1600/DSCF3498a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEP_E4s4xO4P0r_gUFH__pmANDgHs9y4Cdb0eCGg5kYYsZIFxUUYy4-Tc_KtxxkKK2iRTkquEBNCMJv304MPQFSBSq_B-0Uh5CKWYkX7JiPmawYNEIUt8EcpeF-yUDS9bYllbV2FLflQZ_/s320/DSCF3498a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvR7498sndEpGIyJCiR9GCc0nB7N0mgYe1s0Lbysu6gOB4ULws3eawdPmmreYJsKmPRCw5IOx5YEXdtivlw20JbY3rrA6Gs-N59hyphenhyphenIWdC9cno5oDfbtoZbXA9uRSdKD1WbNFIU1neq2v2D/s1600/DSCF3499a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvR7498sndEpGIyJCiR9GCc0nB7N0mgYe1s0Lbysu6gOB4ULws3eawdPmmreYJsKmPRCw5IOx5YEXdtivlw20JbY3rrA6Gs-N59hyphenhyphenIWdC9cno5oDfbtoZbXA9uRSdKD1WbNFIU1neq2v2D/s320/DSCF3499a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-52148727997583920942016-06-29T13:27:00.000+09:302016-06-29T13:27:20.628+09:30The Curse of Fit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUREXXBB-d7rGHwdy0XyX617EqksQCC7AVg2TTavXWBOzWHdEOrnC0APpi0J5eNSbOn7Ba578z0MOZCuZHuRN06qK5J4rn0S9OOQhBDdhiLaj-AKbgAbXZOjmiYyhOubJcp5yMLFuX1mp/s1600/DSCF6509a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUREXXBB-d7rGHwdy0XyX617EqksQCC7AVg2TTavXWBOzWHdEOrnC0APpi0J5eNSbOn7Ba578z0MOZCuZHuRN06qK5J4rn0S9OOQhBDdhiLaj-AKbgAbXZOjmiYyhOubJcp5yMLFuX1mp/s320/DSCF6509a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I was saving the Trumpeter MiG-3 kit so as to enjoy it to
the full – my first Trumpy WWII fighter in 1:48<sup>th</sup> scale, and going
by reviews I fully expected the nice mouldings in the box and a reasonable
assembly. Reviewers noted the fit around the wing root intakes was fiddly and a
bit challenging, but I paid little notice to this, as the older ICM kit was the
one rated as <i>difficult.</i></div>
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Hmmm… I can find no copyright date but something tells me
it’s been around for a while, and despite the lovely surface detail and
excellent fit of much of the kit, the wing roots and lower forward fuselage can
only be described as appalling. The parts simply do not line up, and the quite
rigid plastic resists deformation to force a line-up. We are talking serious
gaps and steps.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCh4OzgZb74xchgNen-TEWXppT0egMu6ZuqBAn_6gMUwNLJ3HwBhs33cp_y88cpbhNfyvm4C9gMjBZwh3qBCL5FHwbGhyZj7mIuasphj5WeOonMXvmmprAX93Q2L5RZ5mStclZ3XSwlMh0/s1600/DSCF6371a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCh4OzgZb74xchgNen-TEWXppT0egMu6ZuqBAn_6gMUwNLJ3HwBhs33cp_y88cpbhNfyvm4C9gMjBZwh3qBCL5FHwbGhyZj7mIuasphj5WeOonMXvmmprAX93Q2L5RZ5mStclZ3XSwlMh0/s320/DSCF6371a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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What is there to do when alignment fails, other than get out
the tools? My rattail files got a serious workout, as did the technique of
adzing with the side of a knife blade to thin down plastic standing proud of
its neighbouring parts, and this was one of the few kits I have ever used a
C-clamp on, to force parts into alignment. Oddly enough, the first time was
also a Trumpeter kit, their AS-90 SP gun, a subject I built a couple of years
ago and have yet to blog about.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1V3lo5DAztFyl2fbbAx99VJYyNe0lf5I8HT4VuLn-cpf77Vg5ahirrboqWdn-tv5fuHbDBo0TK1EgkpldBvwXiN6q1TRnJz0R3TbgkFnTD638MA_l-W87daRc0-av-6bohhpTAhmrVSTd/s1600/DSCF6376a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1V3lo5DAztFyl2fbbAx99VJYyNe0lf5I8HT4VuLn-cpf77Vg5ahirrboqWdn-tv5fuHbDBo0TK1EgkpldBvwXiN6q1TRnJz0R3TbgkFnTD638MA_l-W87daRc0-av-6bohhpTAhmrVSTd/s320/DSCF6376a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Superglue usually does the trick, but overnight curing was
the go this time, preceded and followed by filing and adzing, then putty, as
much as needed, in as many rounds as necessary, to appreciably smooth the
contours. The loss of surface detail was inevitable and the price of fixing the
gaps. In the picture above you see all the masking work, in both tape and
fluid, plus a plasticard shim strengthening the lower rear fuselage, and which
will be obscured by the cooling scoop.</div>
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It’s a shame the parts lined up as poorly as they did as the
rest of the kit of very appealing indeed, and the finished item looks great on
the shelf. I had meant to pick up a few more of this item but I find myself
thinking I’d better build the ICM from my stash first and make a judgement call
on whose engineering is really the most difficult.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqolVfOwj9XhCQwx1NsOJGHhz-qFRapiLJkd9IgKygbgj1w1H8NeBR-bMbESGpRDAKvVeBXGgu1Y1o1Sp3DqVQOWnmTO57lXS3Kh-ukMFDM2D45MlsTZEpPp1FwygdXOg_Ybnsoq05A-u/s1600/DSCF6508a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqolVfOwj9XhCQwx1NsOJGHhz-qFRapiLJkd9IgKygbgj1w1H8NeBR-bMbESGpRDAKvVeBXGgu1Y1o1Sp3DqVQOWnmTO57lXS3Kh-ukMFDM2D45MlsTZEpPp1FwygdXOg_Ybnsoq05A-u/s320/DSCF6508a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A few other points of note about this kit. The
transparencies looked great but reacted to the solvents and glues around them
by developing striations on the inside. They were clear when they went on, then
ceased to be… Nothing to be done about that. The decals behaved very well but
had a patchy topcoat – dull and glossy in spots. My standard clear coats coped
with this well, though.</div>
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Yes, that’s US olive drab in the photos. The aircraft I
selected from the marking options was given by Trumpeter as being in this
shade, and I find it perfectly reasonable that amongst the millions of tons of
supplies which went to Russia under Lend Lease there was likely many thousands
of gallons of US-made camouflage paint for maintenance of the tanks and planes
they sent: some of it may very well have made its way onto Soviet-built
hardware as general availability dictated. Also, I had Tamiya XF-62 on hand and
it went on very nicely. Of course, I was finished before I remembered I should
have added 20% XF-60 Dark Yellow to lighten it for a scale effect, which would
have also allowed the panel wash some contrast… The underside blue is a
homebrew, the shade based on the apparent hue in photographs of restored MiGs.
The mix was XF-2 White plus XF-23 Light Blue plus X-14 Sky Blue at a ratio of
10:5:1. Micro Satin provided the base for panel wash and decals, and Micro Flat
brought the sheen down a bit for the final tone.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnYTHkBP36cIouZL4WdH_h7hbAH2B8AlTt-Xy0Xq6EovQxm07PUjs9-TAw3CNuuXuLPDLpcXbyXPuCsojZfwtDjjMMqJdjPr4XXfcWd3ap2GQvk-EG5ciLejaZBjIoyjPFFHX86LNKkch/s1600/DSCF6511a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnYTHkBP36cIouZL4WdH_h7hbAH2B8AlTt-Xy0Xq6EovQxm07PUjs9-TAw3CNuuXuLPDLpcXbyXPuCsojZfwtDjjMMqJdjPr4XXfcWd3ap2GQvk-EG5ciLejaZBjIoyjPFFHX86LNKkch/s320/DSCF6511a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I left off the radio wire: the mast is so fragile it’s a
wonder it stands upright all by itself, there is no way it would take the
tension of an elastic thread without conspicuously bending.</div>
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I used the Eduard mask set and for once they had no
inclination to pull the paint off as they were removed. I got some bleed-under
from the interior colour but not the exterior – most odd, I’ve not had this
happen before. Another interesting way in which a kit can surprise you – I’m at
a loss to know how landing gear with a keyed fit – square peg to square hole
– can slot home with firm precision on
one leg and on the other be so loose as to literally go round in circles; or
how parts superglued in place can simply <i>fall
off</i>. One wheel so tight on its shaft it needs no glue, the other so loose
it falls off even <i>with</i> glue… The
receiver hole for the propshaft about a millimetre larger than the shaft, but
no retaining device behind it… A gunsight in clear plastic with the sprue gate
on the attachment process so that when you attempt to clean up the gate you
snap off the process and thus have no way to mount it unless you are good at millimetre-scale
scratch building. (There is no gunsight in this bird…)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX2meaRl3KOBFwDOJlR5C3vdmxQP1RDaeeR1ojMYu_G9iWT8CZpWxzLIHpV-Y4hdNWw1DzWQYpf2w4lpQw563ua_8eon3pkonmOAjfIByHsLUGDiA9_M4SmCwclhk6EDlacru0C8v_GoQn/s1600/DSCF6513a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX2meaRl3KOBFwDOJlR5C3vdmxQP1RDaeeR1ojMYu_G9iWT8CZpWxzLIHpV-Y4hdNWw1DzWQYpf2w4lpQw563ua_8eon3pkonmOAjfIByHsLUGDiA9_M4SmCwclhk6EDlacru0C8v_GoQn/s320/DSCF6513a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Formation lights in clear plastic with no positive lock-ins,
just a curved surface to sit back against a matching cutaway in the wing, <i>with the sprue gate on the inner surface of
a 3mm component</i>. This latter makes me want to sit the kit’s designer down
with the kit and a few basic tools and say <i>“you</i>
clean up that sprue gate and fit the part, if you’re so (expletive deleted)
clever!” Seriously, you could take electron micrographs of these bits. With a
watchmaker’s optivisor I can see it, but I can’t <i>manipulate</i> it, and when applying enough force to clean up one of
the parts, it vanished forever across the workbench, explaining the lack of a
light lens on the starboard wingtip.</div>
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These are the kind of discrepancies the big guys worked out
long ago, and this kit must be old enough for Trumpeter to have still been
lower on the learning curve. In all fairness, I would like to build one of
their newer planes and see how it compares. I, um, have several!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nSlKZTCYPGyBgolIbKX0CUks1V4sSE-ABj1fKLi5bOnHMpmprxPaqThjJca5gZGbMXasXGwrK12JE3lgxw9gNxSN-wZ-8gll2bFmUBaZEzY4EdfEgjVcgUu5P1SRU_M2IrVKrAplpMfi/s1600/DSCF6518a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nSlKZTCYPGyBgolIbKX0CUks1V4sSE-ABj1fKLi5bOnHMpmprxPaqThjJca5gZGbMXasXGwrK12JE3lgxw9gNxSN-wZ-8gll2bFmUBaZEzY4EdfEgjVcgUu5P1SRU_M2IrVKrAplpMfi/s320/DSCF6518a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4377551440301701870.post-9681184613958416372016-04-28T16:02:00.002+09:302016-04-28T16:02:56.075+09:30Old Classics and Elbow Grease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLp9nOgMHnPSNT14ItCDTnZarN0_Ar7rfP4NNYCQT0bb_GLSsfwZasnj9zW1AuS4_IPGp5NhwLVjiBnX-ajkW75jibfI7KenWZsiNXzUR8MPKaqxX4mOech0VqbmOYJpJfl8iqJGGllyUp/s1600/DSCF6099a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLp9nOgMHnPSNT14ItCDTnZarN0_Ar7rfP4NNYCQT0bb_GLSsfwZasnj9zW1AuS4_IPGp5NhwLVjiBnX-ajkW75jibfI7KenWZsiNXzUR8MPKaqxX4mOech0VqbmOYJpJfl8iqJGGllyUp/s320/DSCF6099a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We’ve all done it, I’m sure – spotted a bargain and gone for
it, only to realise that saving a few bob can lay you in for a lot of work.</div>
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When Zvezda reboxed Dragon’s Pz. III/F I was more or less
ready for a struggle, but the reviews mentioned the firm had tooled out new
vinyl tracks so I would not be contending with L&Ls, and when a Moscow
trader offered it for a song I shot off an order. In a very reasonable time a
package arrived from Russia and I was able to check out the state of this
particular art.</div>
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Well… I discovered recently that this kit was not actually a
Dragon tool, but one of the Gunze “Hi-Tech” series from the late 80s, and to
say the moulds are showing their age is an understatement. Separation lines,
thickening and softening – maybe the tooling was cut in brass, which tends to
blur with use. And flash, loads of flash. Even wheels with axle holes heavily
flashed over, requiring drilling out… Gunze were big on sprue-gates, suggesting
they were working with low-pressure moulding. To give some idea: including the
spare wheels, there are 112 sprue gates to be cut and cleaned up on the roadwheels
alone!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBn47YS-1MP_w9xfWXOyLkDBixjma52biOowhm16c4_gFsCtNVgCuBQq4rgtz0picxjNVT-PgECpTpS4N3iU_mAOOvrvuowUsimsKwVJJTTAo6lTl6xGf05tVtBZjcoOhu6pjZFFGauDI/s1600/DSCF6102a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBn47YS-1MP_w9xfWXOyLkDBixjma52biOowhm16c4_gFsCtNVgCuBQq4rgtz0picxjNVT-PgECpTpS4N3iU_mAOOvrvuowUsimsKwVJJTTAo6lTl6xGf05tVtBZjcoOhu6pjZFFGauDI/s320/DSCF6102a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fit is middling poor (I think pegs that go correctly into
holes at the first try can be counted on one hand), and almost every part needs
not just cleanup but actual modification with a file to engage even half-way
with its fellows. Gunze seem to have been going the Dragon route in
persistently moulding separately a plethora of small parts. Every leaf of the
towing lugs, fore and aft, is a separate part, and none of them fit worth a
damn. Superglue to the rescue, as ever. Fortunately the soft-ish grey styrene
works quickly and responds very well to all glues, which is just as well, as it
also breaks under much tension at all – ask me how I know...</div>
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The engine screens are poorly moulded plastic parts, so I
replaced them with Aber brass, which fits close enough to do. Likewise the main
gun barrel was so imprecise that I did not even attempt to assemble it, but
ordered up an RB turned steel replacement. It was meant for a different kit and
I had to drill out an aperture through four thicknesses of plastic right back
into the turret to mount it, but there was no real difficulty in that, and it
looks the part. The turret ring has no lock-in lugs to engage the cutaways in
the receiver ring of the upper hull, but it does have a small pin which
prevents the turret sitting down flush with the hull – I cut it off, of course.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPKkfNSCRlmo6mcdCyRoOt_zlYOhtcyXiZQHvVFNuaNlbb_cNzAY1ogjBJYaR4obKDxhFZSGpY62fImNiHH_60hzDDhVxf6MFCbV055SFMMd7zbT6TcFqgYlEcPFh7R3_OfR26n3_rHNMV/s1600/DSCF6103a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPKkfNSCRlmo6mcdCyRoOt_zlYOhtcyXiZQHvVFNuaNlbb_cNzAY1ogjBJYaR4obKDxhFZSGpY62fImNiHH_60hzDDhVxf6MFCbV055SFMMd7zbT6TcFqgYlEcPFh7R3_OfR26n3_rHNMV/s320/DSCF6103a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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By the time construction was done, the model looked
acceptably like a Panzer III. This would be my first Panzer Grey paintjob, and
I went the mixed route, the classic recommendation of Tamiya XF-24 Grey, and
XF-8 Blue to provide the cool hue missing from XF-63 which they pack as Panzer
Grey. Maestro Tony Greenland recommends adding “20% blue” to the grey, but
whether that refers to a ratio of 1:4 or 1:5 is a mystery – it can be read
either way. I went with 1:5, being conservative as to the hue. One thing I was
sure of, I did not want to go the way of the modern trend toward a blue-grey so
washed out and faded it looks like a pair of cheap jeans. Some folks are using
Tamiya XF-23 Blue-Grey as their base colour and, at least to me, this cannot be
right – the German name for the colour was <i>schwartzgrau</i>,
“black-grey.” It is by definition a dark colour.</div>
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I did, however, use XF-23 for the fade coat. I always
intended to do a full modulation job, so for the paler value I used a 5% solution
of the pale blue-grey and misted it onto the upper surfaces. With that out of
the way I could concentrate on the wash and drybrush phase, working with oils
in enamel thinner as always to streak on dirt and rust (dark brown),
condensation streaks (white); then unthinned oils for dirt spots and old rust
(black and brown) as well as new rust (orange) and profiling all edges in pale
grey (a mix of Payne’s Grey and white). Bare metal was drybrushed in silver
enamel. The wheels were completed using the stencil method, which allows a
distinct difference in shade between the tyre rubber and the grey hubs, though
the running gear and lower hull all received a going over with a 5% solution of
brown to suggest road grime, built up gradually, and this pretty much destroyed
the visible difference between tyres and hubs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lP2JpuhZcEwXWsSg4gECg_XOKAVf3_M-PUg9P8nqiLGtDnvz-iKgQLDY8pOmW7sqHs8WfuSrfqzcd-T38v3geJRxaRIyeI4E_sPlP7GvbG64KGH8ugZhPkai5erKu4S9Cs-45Xho_XoW/s1600/DSCF6104a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lP2JpuhZcEwXWsSg4gECg_XOKAVf3_M-PUg9P8nqiLGtDnvz-iKgQLDY8pOmW7sqHs8WfuSrfqzcd-T38v3geJRxaRIyeI4E_sPlP7GvbG64KGH8ugZhPkai5erKu4S9Cs-45Xho_XoW/s320/DSCF6104a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Zvezda’s soft vinyl tracks have raised ejector pin marks all
over them which are impossible to clean up. I shrugged and went with it, after
all, if memory serves, I only gave $12 for this kit! The material does not hold
paint well, acrylic flakes off with minimal abrasion, so the idea is to handle
them as little as possible. In their favour, the detail moulding is very good
indeed, with fine apertures clean through the tracks between the links, something
I’ve not seen from vinyls before. Mounting the running gear is a process of
logic, as nothing is meant to roll or turn, there are no retaining caps or
whatever, so feeding the tracks around the wheels last, as I typically do with
Tamiya flexibles is not an option. Forcing them past fixed wheels would strip
the paint, so I joined the tracks off the model and got the drives and idlers
inside the run, so as to attach them with superglue in one go, then ease the
tracks to add each roadwheel separately, and finally the idlers at the top.
Fiddly, but okay… Surprisingly, once all axle holes were drilled and filed out
to fit at all, everything slipped into place readily and stayed put without
glue – I did a dry run and the tension of the tracks, which were just the right
length for a snug fit, held everything in place. Only the return rollers were
glued in, everything else actually turns!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtgHvwY3q043MC6UTYJt7l4P8jlIxeXaqxPfInXriiothSviu5ZGUMeFwY1mWQOZndCsvrHvH0Z_Zz_nhdXUwEgtntEYFmg3wGCzRPUjZZOqXHEEGNlOgBsqi0vLaHgBORJSp8wMowFFc/s1600/DSCF6106a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtgHvwY3q043MC6UTYJt7l4P8jlIxeXaqxPfInXriiothSviu5ZGUMeFwY1mWQOZndCsvrHvH0Z_Zz_nhdXUwEgtntEYFmg3wGCzRPUjZZOqXHEEGNlOgBsqi0vLaHgBORJSp8wMowFFc/s320/DSCF6106a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The decals are Zvezda standard – very good indeed. They free
off in twenty seconds in cold water and are very thin, snugging into the
surface without complaint, and their very flat finish blends them into the
paintwork without need of clear coats. Applying the decals was the simplest
part of the whole project.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAFCw_3vBMwQ1CQQy0xFjhvTz5RPTmSTo8LORKrT1jJ8ZpOVY61zxFFoyioVsLKbVlp_euTQnOWwr9kWXDsintKxpgMiSZ8DV5VPfrzUGGlPthIEjzTjser6RxChHKX8bJYe9s3zpEC-v/s1600/DSCF6109a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAFCw_3vBMwQ1CQQy0xFjhvTz5RPTmSTo8LORKrT1jJ8ZpOVY61zxFFoyioVsLKbVlp_euTQnOWwr9kWXDsintKxpgMiSZ8DV5VPfrzUGGlPthIEjzTjser6RxChHKX8bJYe9s3zpEC-v/s320/DSCF6109a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">I now have a <i>schwartzgrau</i>
Pz III F in markings for the 2<sup>nd</sup> Panzer Division, in the Barbarossa
era. It sits between Tamiya kits and looks very good on the shelf. Maybe I
overdid the pigment work – too much rust? The beauty is, I can wash it off if
it starts to bug me, and redo it more subtly. But for now, I think it looks quite
the part, and I certainly got my money’s worth with this challenging project
that </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">resurrects some classic moulds for another airing.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUef9hyphenhypheniHvmSuf7oZn0By0kGAO2xLhsA9kilU_CmiQqR0mXUDoPJI6m4M-un0W7wYfIj9mP1pmkbNf4S9oT0MWFq8ky1-tFqPUqXy9eiq6K4pp_5WBz84HQr2WoX2nej00sKwf4n6buEpT/s1600/DSCF6111a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUef9hyphenhypheniHvmSuf7oZn0By0kGAO2xLhsA9kilU_CmiQqR0mXUDoPJI6m4M-un0W7wYfIj9mP1pmkbNf4S9oT0MWFq8ky1-tFqPUqXy9eiq6K4pp_5WBz84HQr2WoX2nej00sKwf4n6buEpT/s320/DSCF6111a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Mike Adamsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11550754238853530000noreply@blogger.com0